'The Ultimate' Dinner Was Superb At Escoffier
'The Ultimate' dinner was superb at Escoffier
By CONSTANCE CRUMP
NEWS RESTAURANT REVIEWER
It was a rare combination of food, setting and company when Janet Gilsdorf collected her grand prize in the News Readers' Poll drawing - dinner for four at Escoffier, the restaurant chosen by readers at "The Ultimate."
"The ultimate dinner is a combination of the karma of the place, people and time - and at a different time, in the same place, it might be completely different," Gilsdorf observed.
All three elements were in harmony Tuesday night as Gilsdort entertained her guests - her husband Jim and friends Karen and Keith Guice. The quarter had no trouble selecting a salubrious menu while sipping kir royales, a delicate combination of champagne and Chambord raspberry liqeuer.
Our parotid glands were called to attention with escargots au citron vert et gingembre (snails with lime and ginger) in a puff pastry shell and one of the best presentations of the evening, petoncles aux epinards. The barely steamed scallops had been wrapped in spinach leaves and sauced with light champagne cream, then arranged in a red leaf shaped to resemble a conch shell.
Galantine de volaille, boned chicken stuffed with chicken pate and pate en croute, liver pate surrounding unctuous foie gras, the whole baked in pastry, were successful classics, accompanied by classic apertif, Lanson Black Label Champagne.
We tried to sample everything on the menu, or so it seemed - and succeeded in the appetizer and soup departments. A pleasant chicken consomme with julienned vegetables was crystal clear, if unexciting. Potage froid de fraises, chilled strawberry soup, was more interesting with its tart, cool blend of fruit, buttermilk, yogurt, and sour cream.
For at least one diner, the boeuf au foie gras et groseilles was an enequalled triumph. "The best beef glop I've ever had," he announced with great satisfaction, looking over his near-vacuumed plate. It was a stunning combination of flavors - tenderloin of beef, foie gras and hazelnuts in a rich wine sauce.
NEWS PHOTO JIM JAGDFELD
From lef, Karen Guice, Jim Gilsdorf and Janet Gilsdorf toast their 'ultimate' meal at Escoffier, the grand prize that Janet Gilsdorf won in The News' Readers' Poll drawing.
Two other tablemates - both duck fans - feasted on canard aux fruits, the crackling roast duck paired with kiwi fruit and apples. Filet de boeuf en croute de pommes de terre was the most experimental entree of the night, with a crisp crust of shredded potatoes and shiitake mushrooms enrobing medium rare roast beef filet. The serving was almost unappetizingly large.
Although it is misnamed, cassoulet de fruits de mer was decidedly toothsome, its combination of poached lobster, scallops, mussels and oysters carefully cooked and carefully arranged.
Wine steward Maureen Perralt's suggestion proved a perfect choice for Bordeaux lovers: 1982 Chateau Branaire Ducru, a lesser-known grand cru whose elegant character suited our food.
Escoffier's salads are always refined, a light digestif before the heavy guns of the dessert chefs. Salade Californie, one specialty of the current menu, adds avocado, tomato and marinate onion to buttery Boston lettuce.
Strangely, no one ordered Escoffier's signature dessert, white chocolate mousse, or its companion white chocolate cheesecake. It was a clear split between the creme brulee Kahlua aficianados and those claimed enough remaining room to accommodate one of Ann Arbor's best desserts. Hazel's turtles are magnificent confections of chocolate and pecans created by Ann Arbor pastry chef Carol Pryor.
It was a hard choice, but I could only stuff in the tiny creme brulee, it's creamy coffee-flavored heart hidden under a crunch of glazed brown sugar.
My only regret of the evening: the espresso machine did not survive the move from the old State Street digs. Rest in peace. A lovely Sauternes - 1983 Clos Labere - more than sufficed to ease our grief.
The new digs are understated and spacious. Although the Bell Tower Hotel's exterior bristles forbiddingly with construction paraphernalia, Escoffier is open for delicious business as usual, Tuesday through Saturday.
The staff, headed by service manager Terry McClymonds, was informative and unobtrusive by turns. Used tableware vanished as soon as - but not before- its role was finished. There's never a used fork put back on the table at Escoffier. The replacements are presented on a fresh napkin with each course.
Pacing is appropriate to price point and ambience - andante. You wouldn't really want a $360 dinner to be over in an hour, would you? For those who prefer a more modest tab or a less daunting feeding frenzy, there is a $37 prix fixe menu, available any time and a four course pre-concert menu at $20, served Tuesday through Friday before 6:30 p.m.
As to the nature of the ultimate dinner - beyond which it is impossible to go - Gilsdorf and her companions agreed that for this corner of the galaxy, for stardate June 23, 1987, it had been a splendid experience - even though Jim Gilsdorf said his ultimate restaurant is Afternoon Delight.