Barbarian Days : : a Surfing Life
Book - 2015 797.32 Fi None on shelf 1 request on 1 copy
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|Location & Checkout Length||Call Number||Checkout Length||Item Status|
Downtown 2nd Floor
|797.32 Fi||4-week checkout||Due 02-02-2023|
Off Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67) -- Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65) -- The shock of the new (California, 1968) -- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971) -- The search (The South Pacific, 1978) -- The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79) -- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81) -- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86) -- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003) -- The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).
Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales.
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