Barbarian Days : : a Surfing Life
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Off Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67) -- Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65) -- The shock of the new (California, 1968) -- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971) -- The search (The South Pacific, 1978) -- The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79) -- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81) -- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86) -- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003) -- The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).
Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales.
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PUBLISHED
New York : Penguin Press, 2015.
Year Published: 2015
Description: 447 pages : illustrations ; 25 cm.
Language: English
Format: Book
ISBN/STANDARD NUMBER
9781594203473
1594203474
SUBJECTS
Finnegan, William.
Surfers -- Biography.
Autobiographies.