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Cordova At Midnight

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In the evening, after dinner, about 8 o'clock, we drew chaira out apon our little balcony above the Paseo. Listless groups had gathered about its cafes. Two gypsy children, as black as negroes, in their scant white shirts, with persistent hands and voices were carrying on Spain 's one flourishing business, but it was not a stimulating sight, and, tired out with the day's journey, we weut at once to bed. It must have been two or three hours later when we were awakened by a loud crash of cymbals and blast of trumpets. Our first thonght was that soldiers were marching througb the town, and we hurried to the wiudow to see. Below a great mass of peopie were seated under the palrus. Open carriages were passing up aud down ou eaoh side, and men on horseback. Very smart nurses, with great bows of ribbon on their heads, had brought wide awake babies out for an airing. Great trucks and vans of merchandise rum bied by. Workmen were about. Half way down the Paseo a band had just begun to play. The cafes were ablaze with iight, theii tables crowded to overflowing. Cordova at midnight had come to life. The air was bot and close, used up bj that vast multitude, and the dust, stirred by their ceaseless march, choked us where we stood. It was hopeless to try to sleep again, and we waited by the window. Of a sudden a bell sounded loud above the voices of the crowd. At once the band was hnshed, carriages were stopped, the people on the ehairs under the palms were on their feet, and not a man but stood, bat in hand. We looked to the end of the Paseo, for everybody was looking that way. From out the doors of the Moorish minaret crowned ohurch carne a procession of men in white surplices, with flickeriug candles and tall lauterns, and a priest carrying the sacrament, under its golden veil, to the dying. Men who a moment before had been drinking feil upon their knees, and we could hear nothing but the tinkling bell and the murmur of a low chant, as the priest walked slowly on between the rows of kneeling people, praying there in the starlight under the palms. Aud so in Spain today, as yes terday, does life in a moment change from fooling to prayer, as the shadow of death passes by, only to return to its folly as readily when the shadow haE passed. Once the priest had gone back to the church, and the doors were shut, the music, louder than ever, went on where it had left off, carriages rolled on, and horsemen pranced after theni. There was no sleeping any more. We dressed and packed our bags, and when in the first dawn the band went away and the last few stragglers were going home and a few peasants were coming in with their donkeys and cafes were being shut we took our places in the hotel coach and drove off to the station in time to catch the express from


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