New York Fashion Letter

As the seasou advances we find tha Eton jackets and the bolero are becom iug too ordinary for the ultra fashion able and in order to get away fron these shapes doublé breasted effects are being rapidly adopted. Ontside coats dress waists and even evening bodioes are being fashioned after tbis style The evening bodices are draped in sof folds whioh cross at the waist line, anc are fastened with fancy buckles or but tons, giving mach the same idea that the surplice used to have. This style is very becoruing to almost auy figure and gives an opportunity of showing a V shaped piece in the front of the bo dice, which can be made of fine lace or embroidered chiffon. Mosquitaire sleeves continue to be veiy popular. Even the snmmer lawns and organdíes which are not lined are made up in this style. In ruaking up these sleeves it is necessary to use a tape on the inside seam of the sleeve to which tbe fullness eau be tacked. Another idea is to make a seam on the back as weli as the front of the sleeve and stich the seams doublé so that a soft oord eau be drawn tbrongh the seam, and the fullness distributed oaiefully and then caught to the cord witb invisible stitches. The band trimmings are made of lace, chiffon or embroidered muslins and in many cases fall down over the hand almost to the knuckles. The collars for light summer gowns become more and more elabórate as the season advances. Dressmakers now spend almost as ranch time originating new ideas for collars as they used to spend in designing a whole gown. A pretty neck trimming, beyond a doubt, is a very necesary feature in the summer dresses. Ribbons are nsed in great profusión not only for collars and belts but as waist and skirt trimmings. They are used to make a pretty contrast with the color of the dress, rather than to match it. One very pietty imported gown is now on exhibition at one of our prominent modistes. It is made of nile green organdie over heliotrope silk. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with tbree rows of inch wide ribbon, each row being of a different shade of heliotrope. Tbree rows of the same ribbon are applied around the hips, and bows made of loops of the different shades of beliotrope are used to trim the waist and sleeves. The effect is very pleasing and artistic. For the above information we are inaebted to A. McDowell & Co., 4 West 14th st., New York, who publish the only cheap imported Fasbion Journal sold in this country. "La Mode de Paris" is $3.50 a year, 35 cents a copy, and "Frenen Dressmaker" is $3.00 a ?ear, 30 cents a nopy. These journals make a special feature of lessons on practical dressmakiug each month. During the next six months they will ?ive a series of lessons on bioyole costumes which will be of great interest to both professional and amateur dressmakers. If you cannot secure these books at your newsdealers, send direct to the publishers.