Quaint City Of Manila

QUAINT CITY OF MANILA

Scenes Described by a Tenth Pennsylvania Volunteer.

SOCIAL CONDITIONS AND CUSTOMS.

The Dark Eyed Spanish Beauties, Still Faithful to the Lost Cause, Have No Smiles For the American Soldier- The Midday Siesta- Fortifications and Odd Structures.

[Copyright, 1899, -by the Author.]

III.

When one begins to tell about the queer old capital city of the Philippines set here on the western coast of Luzon and at the mouth of the noble Pasig, whose waters carry down from the interior golden grains of sand, one has an almost endless theme. It is a story of fascinating interest. Every one of the 378 years which have elapsed since the discovery of these islands by Magellan and each one of the 327 years which have been numbered with the past since first the banner of Castile and the holy cross were planted here is filled with events which in themselves would fill volumes. In this tropical clime, beneath the sun's scorching rays, which come down so straight that a sentinel cannot dodge them, there are many things of an intense and absorbing interest. When one tires of listening to the horrors of the past and to the dark tales of Spanish oppression and misrule, one can turn his mind elsewhere and lose no interest because of the change.

Indeed Manila is a somber place. The great walls, fortifications and armaments to be seen everywhere keep the idea of defenses uppermost in the mind. Manila has many fine boulevards, and on these in the cool hours of the evening Manila's society may be seen driving along in the queer open carriages in which one lounges rather than sits while riding. The spirited little ponies jog along merrily. The Spanish ladies, some of whom are extremely handsome, bareheaded and dressed in light gauzy fabrics suitable to the climate, are very pleasing to the sight. Their dark eyes, which flash in a peculiar way, half satirical, and their pearly teeth sparkling through smiling lips add to their charms. But they are most loyal to the "lost cause," and their smiles are not for Americans. While the Spanish senors are in many cases quite friendly to us, the senoras and senoritas are not so.

In normal times there is a great deal of social activity among the Spanish and other European residents here, and out in the delightful San Miguel, where dwell the wealth and society of Manila, there were many gay festivities, but war put an end to all that, and the evening drives and promenades seem to be the only recreations in which Manila now indulges. Even cockfighting, the great national sport of the islands, seems to have fallen into decay, and if one wants a little amusement out of the ordinary one is at his wits' end to find it.

The midday siesta, which for a time threatened to be given up, is still enjoyed by everybody who aims to be classed as somebody. But this midday sleep of Manila does not mean that the city is as lazy as it was under Spanish rule, when it slept nearly all of the day. Under the present regime early in the morning and in the evening the city is astir. The shops at eventide are ablaze with brilliant lights, the Escolta is crowded with pedestrians, and the Cascada, the Metelle and the Lunetta are filled with gay equipages. Our soldiers are falling into the ways of the midday siesta, and our officials have come to realize that our hustling methods, as practiced in temperate climes, will not go in this land, where the sun continuously pours its rays straight down.

Like all slow going Asiatic towns, Manila is today very much the same as it has been for centuries, though the coming of the Americans has infused some new life and vigor into the sleepy old place. The original town, founded by Legaspi, is known as Old Manila, and is located between the Pasig river and the bay. This is the famous walled city whose fortifications were begun early in its history and have been continued down to the present day. New Manila, commercial Manila, lies on the opposite side of the Pasig and on very low ground, being only a foot or so above the tide. Binondo, Santa Cruz and San Miguel are the districts lying along the Pasig, with San Sebastian, Sampolia and other districts back from the river. Binondo is the center of Manila's commerce.

The fortifications are among the most interesting features of Old Manila. Running along bay and river, the two walls of the old city form an acute angle. These walls are connected by others on the land side, which by half a dozen angles cover the mile and a half between bay and river. On the bay side the fortifications extend over a mile, and on the Pasig half that distance. Within the main city are inclosed probably three square miles of territory.

The walls are pierced by eight gates. On the bay side are Puerto Santa Lucia and Puerto Portigo; on the land side, fronting the fortifications, are Puerto Real and Puerto Del Parian; on the land side, overlooking the river, are Puerto Isabel and Puerto Santo Domingo, and on the Pasig side, looking toward the point, are Puerto Adriana and Puerto Almaune. All of these thrice century old gates have their drawbridges, lookouts and other mediaeval arrangements, and while none has been closed for some years, the old machinery remains in perfect condition. Surrounding the whole fortifications is a system of great moats, flooded by the tide.

There are many interesting public buildings, churches and private dwellings in Old Manila. The capitol, or the ancentimento, as the Spanish call it, is located here, and where Augustin formerly ruled our government officials now direct affairs on these islands. The cathedral of Old Manila was built in 1578, and, although it has endured several earthquakes. which have shattered its towers, it still stands.

Old Manila is fronted on the bay side by the Metelle, a fashionable driveway and promenade, where Spanish society formerly disported itself, but which is now thronged by American soldiery and Spanish prisoners. Beyond the Metelle along the bay is the famous La Lunetta, where the Spanish army formerly held its drills and parades. Here it was formerly the custom for the wealth and beauty of the Philippine capital to enjoy the cool evening breezes, when the Lunetta was continually thronged with carriages and pedestrians. The Spanish military bands furnished music on such occasions, and there were indeed merry scenes. It was the custom of the captain general to drive around the square in the direction opposite to that taken by the crowd. It is said that this was done in order that none rnight fail to recognize and salute him.

The Lunetta is now the camp ground of our soldiery. Our troops now parade and drill here, where the Spanish legions formerly were marshaled. Extending from the Lunetta around in front of the old city to the Puenta de Espana is the Cascada Aquada, a famous driveway. Along its course is the Seventy third barracks, where a body of our troops is now quartered. Beyond it is the Botanica Jardin, which was partially destroyed by the Spaniards to check our advances. From the Puenta de Espana toward the point along the river extenda the famous Avenue de la Magellanes.

So much for Old Manila and the unhappy memories which it carries with it. New Manila lies just across the Pasig, which is spanned by three fine bridges. It extends along the river for four or five miles and back toward the mountains. Binondo, the principal commercial section of the city, lies along the river from the Puenta de Espana to the bay. It contains the custom house, clearing house, banks, offices of foreign firms and most of the shops and stores. Manila 's Chinatown is in Binondo.

In the mile of river front between the Puenta de Espana and the bay the Pasig presents a busy scene. Since the blockade was raised and commerce restored the river is filled with the ships of all nations. At present the largest steamers cannot enter the Pasig, but discharge and receive their cargoes by lighter in the bay. With vessels of a certain draft part of the cargo can be loaded and unloaded in the river. Prior to the beginning of the war the Spanish had harbor improvements under way which when completed will provide dockage in the Pasig for the largest craft. It is likely that our government will complete these improvements.

Just beyond the Escolta is located the Chinese quarter, and here upward of 50, 000 Celestials live in closely crowded quarters. The Chinese settlement in Manila forms a civilization all of its own. The Chinese are thrifty and industrious, and here as elsewhere they have prospered in spite of persecutions. Manila has several millionaire Chinese merchants and hundreds of wealthy Celestial shopkeepers and manufacturers.

The population of Manila is a most heterogeneous one - Chinese, Japs, Malays, Portuguese, English, Dutch, Germans, Americans and all the rest. It is doubtful whether there is an Asiatic nationality which is not here represented. The native population by far outnumbers all other classes of people. The natives, next to the Chinese, are most energetic in business.

William Gilbert Irwin. Manila.