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Foreign Correspondence

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Oaiiu College, Honolulú , H. I., ) Januarv 12th, 1880. f Tuesday morning, Scpt. 8th, I was on deck aboat lmlf-paat seven o'clock. In biMiig told thnt land had been in sight for Bome time outh of us, I quickly and eagerly gazcd in that direction, but nothing seemed visible. Looking again with more care aud scrutiTiy, I saw just above the horizon the falnt outline of a cloud differiug very littte in color from the blue heaven above and around it; and tuis proved to be the lirst sight of the longed for land. As we came nearer, the cloud took on a more solid appearance, gradually changiug into a long, narrow, gray maas with clearly deflued outliue. This was the Island of Mulokai. To the nortuwest of it is the Island of Oahu, on whose southern coast are iituated the Bay and City of Honolulú. Our course was, tlierefore, southerly until we sighted Molokai, when we turned westward so as to run along the southern coast of Oahu. The Island of Molokai owes its chief reputatiou to the colony of lepéis occupying a part of It, about which 1 hope, in due time, to write something. It lies nearly east and west forty miles in length and has a width of only seven miles. A range of volcanic mountains cxtends along tlie whole northcin coast, varying in belgbt from a few hundred to 3,500 f eet; and this line of gray mountains, jutting up bare, rugged and wild out of the ocean, was the most that could be sten. We ran along, perhaps two hour?, parallel to this c"oast and at a distance of ten or fifteen miles froui it, until some one annouuced Oahu in sight. It was souietime, however, beforc I could discern anythiiig at all and Uien, as before, only a falnt cloudy outllue, which gradually dcveloped into a cone-likc peak. Tiiis proved to bc Mahapun Point, forming the extreme south-eastern projection of the island and dUtant about seventeen miles from Honolulú. It is an extinct rolcnic cráter a few hundred feet high and siderably eroded. As we approached nearer, we could see the oiuline run iway to the north, rising highcr and bigher frora onejagged peak to another until at last the faintest ontllne was lost ia the distant clouds. We gradually grew nearer until within two miles of Makapun Point, altUougli the interveiling distance seemed bot a few rods. lts sides were covered with graas, except here :md there where tlie reddish bnnvn and black lava ghowed through in spots, giving the appearance of little landslides, being, in fact, spots of lava that liad not yetdecomposed to enable vegetation to take root. The growth of f raag was not very thlck, but enough so to give the mountain a very beautiful bronze-green color. When quite near, we could see where in years, probably many centuries gone by, the lava had run down the sides of the volcano. There it was now in solid congealed streams, standing out clearly and bringing forcibly to mlnd the grand and awful scène that raust have taken place when this región was in full volcanic activity. From this point to Honolulú, our rate of progress was exasperatingly slow; because the steamer was due just at noon and this line makes a great point of getting alongside the wharf exactly at the minute, if possible. So, in order not to reach Honolulú before noon, we just barely crawled along. Tliough somewhat exasperating, it gave us, who were new corners, an unusually fine opportunity for seelng and studying the objects alongshore; and well wortliy were they of careful observation. The sightof the deep-blue ocean waves dashing agalnst the dark precipitous sides of the island and quickly changing into foam almost dazzling in its whlteness, creeping up in jeta of spray many feet in height, was surpassingly beautiful. Before reaching Makapun Point, there appeared beyond it, southwest, at a distance of flve .miles another extinct volcanic cráter, quite similar in size and appearance to the first one. This ie Koko Head, nbout twelve miles east of Honolulú. Passing this roint, a new and very different scène preaented itself to us. Beyond Koko Head to the west about seven miles is one of the most famous landmark! on the Islands, known as Diamond Head, an enormous, mucb-worn, extinct cráter, standing out boldly and grandly majestic agalnst the sky. Between Koko Head and Diamond Head, the shore curve in, forniing a very beautiful bay. To describe aatisfactorily the view preaented by the island back of this bay is impossible; and it ia extremely difficult to convey any at all adequate idea of it. A few miles back froin the shore of the bay and nearly parallel with it, runs a high mountain range, its ridge broken up into sharp, jagged aud fantastic peaks, crowncd with grten trees and touched by the clouds. At right angles to this main ridge, several valleys opened right into the very heart and core of the mouutains. Passing along the coast, we could look direclly up these valleys until they come to a more or less abrupt tertnination against the high wall of the main ridge. Never have I seen a picture of nature in qulet peace, so beautiful, so luxuriant as in these tropical garden valleys. The valleys are, perhaps, what at home you might cali immense ravines. They vary in width from a quarter of a inile to one or more miles. Their soil is very fertlle and their bottom and sides are covered with a most luxuriant growth of tropical vegetatiou. Fields of sugar cañe and rice wave and glistened in the bright morning Bunlight. Qroves of banana, plauts of orange, kukui and koa trees grew in almost wanton luxuriance and profusión. Shaded spots here aud there looked doubly cool aud inviting in coutraat with the lirightness reflected all arouud by the tropical sun. On the shore of this bay, I caught my first right of a grove of cocoa nut palms. At a diatance these trees do not impresa oue particular}' for beauty or grandeur, and a large grove presents a rather scattered appearance. Sonie one has not lnaptly likened the siglit of one of these trees at .1 distance to an exajrgerated feather-duster struck by lightning. We had had a most deligtful, morning breeze all the morning and the day was perfect; but as we rounded Diamond Head, the brcezes were even more refreshing and invigorating, raising the spirits of one aud all to the highest degree of exexhileration. Alter roundlng Diamond Head we were In sight of Honolulú or, rather, were supposed to be. I must confess that my first sight of the "Paradise City of the Pacific," if this could becalled a flrst sight, was rather disappointing not for what I saw but for what I didn't see. No citv aud uo sign of auy city wa6 in gight. What I saw was the coast line rounding In and formlng a bay of contlderable beauty and extent. Back from the shore, perhaps a half ft nille, footlillls began to rise, running up gradual ly uto high, Irregular and brokeu poaks a fow miles inlaad. Cutting into thls range of mountaina were] geveral beautiful valleys, such as had already been passed. Iinmedlately back of wbere the city was supposed to be, stood out proraiuently and boldly an immense oíd cráter, known as Punch-boid. Between the shore and the foot-hilli, lies a lsvel platn, varying in widtli from one-half to three-fourtlis of a mile, and extending for several miles along the shore of the bay. Along this plain is situated the City of Honolulú, but all that could be seen from our place of observation wu the long, narrow plain fllled wlth trees, their fresh green tops wavinji in the breezes and brightened by the brilliant rays of a tropical sun. It looked to me like an Immense orchard or carefully kept grove crowded along the oceiin's shore. It requires no small amount of faith to believe that under that great leafy bower there lived and moved a city of 20,000 human beings, no traces of ivhich were visible, uxcept, perhaps, a church epire or two and here and thcre something rcsembling a houscroof. Soon, however, we could distingiiish numerous masts of vessels rising up in the harbor. About half a mile out into the ocean, a coral leaf fringes the shore, and the line of white surf breaking over it in the rnidst of the deep blue waters furuished a very cü'ective foreground for tbc beantiful panorama that lay behind. A narrow channel opened through the reef into the harbor. Before reachiug the reef, a pilot carne out to take the steamer into the harbor. Aftor passing insidc the reef, a very remarkable and beautiful sight met our eyes in the peculiar colorín; of the water. Owing to the greatly varying depths of water here, it takes on a great nuniber of shades of color, varying from Ueep blue to lichter blue, passing into every shade of purple, and apain into every variety of green, all the different colors and shades distinct from oue another aud yet blending harmoniously togetber. Exactl v as the city clock struck the hour of non, we were alongsido the wharf; and, I suppoge, the cptaln's ambition to sustain the steamship coinpanys reputation for exact prouiptness was tborougbly gratifled.; The arrival of a steamer frotn San Francisco is no sinall event in this little island world, for it forms the cliief connecting link between the lsiands and the rest of the greater world. Consequently, the wharf is generally crowded wlth an expeciant uncl auxiously waiting assemblage. So it was on this September noon. The people on the wharf were mostly American, but thcre was also a generous irinklin: of natives and Chinese. It was a tropical loooking gathering; overy one seemed to be dressed with special reference to cool comforts. The nativet wero mostly barefootcd and wore garlands of flowers arouud their necks or their hats. Huckmen were therc in numbers sufflcient to put Niágara Falls to shame. They are called "expressmen" here and their carrlages "expresses." Hacks and hackmen under their eastern manner are unknown. Before I had a chance to leave tlie steamer, new friends came on board, found me out and gae me a most cordial welcome. From the very moment of my landing I was made to feel at home and an experience of four montbs' living here has 8erveJ only to Increase tliat first home-leeling.


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