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Foreign Correspondence

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IlTCTSBRTJCK, IN TyhiiI,, Austria, Bent. S. 1R72. ( Although posscssed of 110 skill in rccngnizing the differont stylesof architecture, t is no( iinproper to Bpeak of tha variety of these styles, purposely dosigned in tlio iiiiiny public ediflcea oí Munich, and, thcrtt'ore, forniing a noticeable feature in tho appeorance of tho city. The old Pinakothok, ereeted in 1830 in Koiuusanoe stylc ; the Glyptothok in 1830, in 1ln Ionic. Tho oxhibition building, opposite the latter, ha a Dorio colonnade and pedimcut fronting tho sfreet. The Wittels bach palace is of tho Medieval pointed stylo ; the publiu library erected in lH'l'i in tho Florentina ; the Festsalbau, sanio yoar, iu Italian ftenaiaance ; tho Koniixsban in 1823 in imitution of Pitti palace at ïljience ; the new court chapel in 1837 ia the Byzantino style, and allure fine buildings. This is, moreover, but a partial list. We found tnnch to gratify and instruct iu a day's inspection of" tho Glyptothok or ' hall of sculpture." It is a continuous building, surrounding an inner rectangular court. Entering tho iirst hall at the left of tho vestibule, the visitor goes from this hall to the next and thus succossivcly through the twclve lialls, which completes the circuit of the square trom which tho various halls aro lighted. The pleasure of examining this line collection is ïnuch enhanced by the arrangement of a distinct epoch in each In the lst or Egyptian hall were an Isis, Obplisk and other specimens of art from Egypt. In the 2d wero anciont tombstoues and bas-relief figures, and such other oarly specimens as illustrate the infancy of tho art. In tho 3d or JRginetan hall worc marblos from the templo of Minerva in tho island of iEgina, with statuos of aneient Greok worthies, &c. In the 4th or Apollo hall was tho Apollo Citharodus - a fino pieco of sculpture, an Achules, a Diana, Ceres, &c. In the öth orBacchus hall wero the fhiest woaks of art, and they wero intendcd to represent tho golden ago of sculpturo in Greece. Tho slocping or Barbaran Faun forma, tho most Btriking object, and is claimed to be an undoubted original from the hand of Phidias. It was ccrtainly tho workof no coinmou hand. Ino Leucothea, the drunken Satyr, Silonqs, &c, and many others, worthily oecupied pedestals in this hall. But I need not specify even tho principal treasures of the various halls. A Clio in the Niobo hall was beautiful and the drapery executed with wonderful skill in the stubborn marble. The hall of colorod sculptures was interesting, from the novel and artistic binatioii of dark und white marble in the same figure, which aro to be seen in that i room. The beautiftJ frescoes by Cúrnolius which adorn the ceiling of oach , room, and were intended to harmonizo with tho opoch thero ropresentcd, wcro in themsolves most intoresting subjeots of study as we passed along. Near tho Glyptothek Í3 tho Propylooa, a commemorativo triple archod gateway, 1 in iiuitation of that iu the Acrópolis at Athens. It form3 a nagnificent strueture, finished with Dorio columns upon one side and Ionic upon tho other, and the reliëfs are to illustrato tho inoidents which brought about tho elevation of Otho, a Bavarian prince, to the throuo of Greece. By a singular contretemps this beautiful memorial of national prido was aoarcely inaugurated ere the unfortunate Otho retumod, no longer a king. Whoever has traveled much in Gor many has had frequent occasion to admire tho genius of Sohwanthalor, in thoso splendid decorations of tho public edift ces to bo seon on every hand, and in those enduring monuments with which this land has so generously honored its noble dead, and wo improved a few hours one day in a visit to tho museum of original modols which he had preserved, and before his deceaso had prosented to tho city. llore were over 200 models which the wonderful industry of this artist had conceived and executed, of such surprising variety of design and size, and altogether oonsti tuting such a labyrinth of creations from this single hand, that it is quito impossible to look upon thora without respectful amazement. Probably no singlo artist has done so much and so well as Schwanthaler. Besides the collcctions I havo referred to, and tho profusión of statucs and other monuments of bronzo and stone which stand in every public square, thero aro a great number of both public and private collections in art and antiquities, which it would be quite impossiblo to describe in theso letters. But I will briefly mention a few of the more important frescoos which wo havo seon in our rambles. At tho Isar gato tho arch bears a good fresco representation of the entry of Lcwis tho Bavarian atter the battlo of Ampfing in tho ltth contury. Upon tho sido of tho post-office, facing Max Joseph platz, boneath the arcado, aro fine equestrian figures upon a red ground, imitations after tho theater at Herculaneum. Tho pediment above tho colonnade of tho Hof Theater contains beautiful representations of Pegusus and tho Hours, and of Apollo and the Muses. But by far the most extensivo docoration of this kind is tho series which lilis tho two long arcades bounding the Palaco garden on the west and north sides. Each section contains a distinct illustration of some notable ovent in Bavarian history, or of landscapes from scènes in tho Tyrol, Sicily, and Italy, and incidents taken from the Greek war of liberation, which lod to tho selection of Otho as thoir king. The whole series extends a distanco of somo twenty-five rods, and contains excollent specimens of fifteen of tho Germán artists who have been dislinguished in this department. It is by such extensivo patronage as is oonstantly to bo seen in : this city that art hus been so remarkablv developed here, and wliich has mado Munich not a only dehghtful resort lor the stranger but the just prido of its own citizens. But what excites an almost incredulous surprise, is tlio fact that for all these invaluable stores of art, these beautiful adornmeuts and this noble architecture, tho magnificent Ludwig Strasse, und even the large proportion of all that indicates tlio rapid growth and prosj)ority of Munich, it is aiainly indebted to the truly regal munificence, fine taste and more thin ordinary royal wisdom of the lu,te ICiug Lewis. It is Eeldom indeed that history bas given to tho world 6uch a noble ínstanos of tL. great blessing ot' nnlimited wertlth when propcrly aeed, and grave indiscretions raay be well nigh forgotton in (lio glory of so much that is good. But a hundred objocls worthy ot' osjiociul iiotico must bo omitted írom auy blief notico of this intorosting city. The Knglish Garden, laid outbyCount Rnniford df tor the siyle of a largo park, without the int roductkin ot' Howers and merely ornamental slirubbery, is folir milds long and a remarkably successful appropriation ot every oligille feature in tliis cxd-iisivi! gpace so littlo diversifiod by Bwelling hill and rocky dell. No moro delightful raniblo or rido could be dcsirod by tbu lovor of nature in its more quiet aspocts (hun Uiose leng ibrest avo:nh:s, with frequent glimpsus of its beautiiul nieadow and lako and running strenuis. It would be impossible to completo even this hasty sketch without noting some of the features of the great anniversary which quite ongrosscd tho attontion of all Munich duririg tho greater part of our stay, and would indeed ha,ve equally interestcd us had it occupied a few days later and after our eager curiosity in other directions had been to some extent sated. We were too late to secure tickets to all the cxereises of tho weck, even if we had desired them ; but through tho kindnoss of ono of tho professors, to whom a friend had furnished us with letters, we were tondered tickets to tho Hof Theater fcr Wednesday evening, of which, howover, we did not avail ourselvcs, though we did occupy for a short timo a favorable position lor seeing the endless line of caninges drive within the colonnade and disembark their occupants in full dreis, as expressly required by tho cards of invitation. The theater, the largest in Germany, was completely filled, as we were informed, with a very gay assemblage - tho opera being one of Vagncr's. Only a singlo ticket to tho address to be delivorod by Dr. Dollinger, on Thursday, ccjuld bo procured, but this was also most kindly proffered and gladly used by the only meniber of our party who was supposed to be equal to the vernacular. Tho address was delivered at thn hall of tho University, to an audience which filled all the available space pon the inain floor, t'no small gallcry, which was assignëd to ladies, having only about fifty occupants. Dr. D. remained sitting during tho reading of his speech, but had an onunciation so clear and distinct that, without apparont effort, every word was made audiblo throughout tho largo hall. As to the speech itself, it very naturally assumed somewhat the nature of a historical skotch of the University and of Germán thought and learning, as they wero cotemporaneously doveloped during the eventful four centurics which worc just closing, and in the later years of which the speaker had himself played no portant part, and his own appoarance as tho orator of the day being itself significant of progress made. Thuisday was the great day of tho week, and with tho early dawn thoui sands of streamors, fifty or sixty feet in length, representing tho colors of tho Empire, of Bavaria, and of tho University, began to descond from the high. buildings on cither hand along the entire route of the intonded procession, and often elsewhere, presenting a very festivo and brilliunt scene indeed, as we passed up Ludwig Strasso to the University. Bcfore 8 o'clock the stroots bogan to be filled with tho multitude who wished to witness the display, and a guard of uniformed troops complctely surrounded the largo square between the University on ono sido and the Georgianum and Max Joseph school on tho other. Our position was directly in front of the King's palace, and the large platz was densely packod, when about 9 A. M. tho music heading tho procession appeared frora the Dienersgasse, and moving to tho right, passing tho theater entranco, thus brought the entire lino in successive order directly opposito tho central open window in the 3d story of the palaco, at which stood Kiug Lewis II. The band halting ia front of his Majesty (and us) playod God save tho King, and moved slowly on, preceded by tho bannors of tho Kingdom, tho Empire, and tho University. Following in a column four deep wore ono-half the studonts, according to their respective collogo corps, and as each passed before their young king gavo utteranco to their loyalty, which is said to be of the warmest kind, in the most vociferous manner, - an homage which was kindly and pleasantly acknowledged by repeated bows to the right and left by tho royal recipiënt. Then followed the professors and teachers of tho University, Dr. Dollingor arm in arm with the first professor, - and these also halted beforo His Majesty and did obeisanco in a loss clamorous way, and wore received with evident prido by their royal head. The attiro of theso loarnod gentlemen was of the most uncomfortable stylo, - -a thickly-waddod, clumsy, four-cornored cap, large, heavy, voluminous cloth togas, with ono end thrown over tho arm with studied nogligenco and displaying a lining corrosponding in color with tho cap - white, elaborately embroidered nondescript appendages to the collar or cravat, eitouding about half way down and over the vest, and on the whole appearing very good models for statues, but badly tidstpted to long marches. The professors wero apparently, with but two or three exoeptions, men of advanced yoars and inaturity. They marched in divisions and their respective departments, whethor of Science, Letters, Philosophy, &c, wero indicated to the initiated by the colors they wore. Dr. Dollinger appeared to be a man about 00 years of ugo, slightly built for a Germán, hair diuk though woll mixed with gray, well-markod features of sharp outline, head not noticcably largo or forehead high, complexión somowliat placid, of medium height, erect form, and with a modest, agreeable expression of oountenance - a general appearance suggesting tho scholar rather than the orator. Ilis presenco on such an important occasion, in a stronsrly Catholic capital not fully comproraisod in the progressivo religious libcralism of his school, was yet a notablo incident among the many everywhore springing up. Deputations irom tho various literary institutions moro or less connected with the University appearcd in turn - tkm the young doctors whose degroes were to be contened - and deputations also f'rom other Universitios, sotne of which wurti represented by proxy. Finully caine the remaining half of the studente, in duo order, according to their respective societies. As the forniur graduates who were present took their places ia that corps of tho uudergraduates to wliic'.li they had been attachcd when in '! ooilege, tbe aggregftte iioinber of the student portion oí tho procession was coneiderably increased. They aumber at the present timo about fifteen hundred, but iiid not appear to bo so numuroua iu tho procession itself. It is not easy for one not familiar with tlio Tttrioua badges and insignia displayfid on occasions liko this to givo a eatisfaotcry account of its distinetive divisiuns, liut 110 ouo OOUld holp beiug deeply iuterested in the intenso glow of conscious erijoyment wliicli possened hvotj one. This spirit was espoeially eontugious when tho light-hearted students camo along, with thcir tinaoled saneer like capa - blue, red, yellow, green, white and variousother shades, haring significance, doubtless, to tho initiated, with their respective bimners and oiSccrS, a color bearer and marshal to each división. These officers, by tho wuy, all wore white buckskin tiglts, with boots of the glossioat black extending sume inches abovo the knee, very long military gauntlets and their long straight dueling swords, and were evidontly the most important, personages in tlio long procession, as the profenon were not less evidently the most uncomfortable. The enthusiasm of the students as eaeh corps passod before their young king, who i.s only 28, handsome and unmarried, partook of tho insaue - beginning, in tact, often long before they arrived within his field of -vision. It is oertainly truo, however, that the single ejaculatory "llah" of this German salute is far less satisfactory than the American " Hip, hip, hip, hurrah," which gathers strength during the " hip, hip, hip," till on tho final "hurrah" it comes down with a thunilerous vocal explosión which carrios tho heart out with it. Tho proecssion was closed by a seoond band of music, and occupied over an hour in passing His Majesty, whoremaiiied standing at tho window in full viow, bowing right and lett, with that conscious haj)piuess which tho event was well ealcilatüd to produce in both prince and subject. A disagrecable rain feil at times during tho day and tho next, when an excursión was to have been made to Landshut or Ingolstadt, - where the University had formerly boen located. On Baturday the students all proceedod in carriages to Nyniphenbnrg, whero the king has a fine chateau. We happened at the time to be near tho Carlsthor, and saw thempass in over 130 carriages. Thero wo had an excellent opportunity to notico the frequency with which tho students' faces were scarred in their pastimes, or tho less playlul usq of duoling swords. During tho week there have boen feasts at the Odeon and a still moro general feast in the open air ; and but for the untimely rain, nothing occurred to dampen the ardor of the participants. Full accounts will doubtless appear in the large city papers trom tho pens of those inore fortúnate than ourselves. That our visit occurred at this conjuncturo of circutnstances was both fortúnate and unfortunate. Fortúnate, in givinj; an opportunity to see Munich in liohday attire - with its crowds, its literati, its students and its king : unfortunate, in the greator scarcity and expenso of lodgings - in the impossibility of making letters of introduction of any service, and in occasional changes in the hours of admission to collections, &O., which wero sometimos aimoying. On tho whole, however, wo think the advantages wero in excess. The fair, which continued during the week of our arrival, was our first chance to witnass this phaso of European institutions. Alraost every conceivablo article entering into common daily and domestic use was there to be found, and at extremely reasonablo prices. Almost evory form of popular amasement, including Punch and Judy, wex'e to bo seen. Aniong them were several booths from the Tyrol, in which a. variety of figures wero arranged, and with guns loaded with harmluKs contents wero tired at by the numborless sharpshooters among the boys, whoso enjoyraont cost nothing ïf successful and only a trifle when they failed to hit. But we must leavo the story of Munich ouly told in part, even of tliat which we saw, - and thoro are many things not seen woll worth a visit. Whoöver has two weeks to spare for Municli can keep himseJf busy, and whoever has less must leave with regret. Ever yours.


Old News
Michigan Argus