Foreign Correspondence

IxxsnitiTK, i. Tykot,, Austria, ) Bept. 21, 1872. . 3Iy deak Toxi): Partenkirohen, like nearly all tho vilof the river and highlands of Gorniany, has its oíd csstle, ono of whiofa has given its name, Werdenfels, to nll tho southern district of Hnvaria. Beated high above tho valloy on tho BOutbeastorn slopo of tho Kraruerborg, it was plainly in view í'rom tho patbs where wo often touk our strollg, and though in a cor.dition of neorly complete ruin we mado it the object of one of our ramblcs. The Loisíach itj a vory rapid stream and the bridgee havo to be well made, but aro not very frequent, so thnt we wiic obligcd to cross the river at tíurmish. l'roiii there tho path leada down its left bank, and after Boroewhat e milo wo pasa uu cxti nsive charcoal yard, where vast piles of wood covered with earlh are by smoulderirjg combustión, ed to oharooal and then shipped to Uunich and elsewhere, where í'uol is lera ibuildant. We callad on the way at n nug looking farm house, lor renis and partly to sec the inmutes. ?akiog onr scrits in the suaamer-house mtside, the good-natured poasant volon brought tho uiilk in mugB with pewtei lids - regular beer glasees. Learnins; from the oonversation that ivo were from América, her amazement and euriosity were wonderfol to behold. Sho would talk ü littlo and then gaze with a look of profound intentness, ejaculating from time to time, " Aus America '. yaw - yaw!" Beforo we left sha presented cach ot' our party with a fe&ther for our bats, au act of such prononnced friendliness for our country that we could not refnse, and for that day we displayed thoso tokens of amicable intercoarse alior the Tyrolese modo. Just beforo reaching tho aecent to the oastle we arrived at a very oxhnsivo 'iüiI pleasant loi with fine outbuildinga and a largo park nuatly laid out with winding foot-paths and soiue small plats of flowers. It was denco for the family of a iiy merchant of Munich. Beautiful as the situation was, it seemed altog too socludcd and retriete from oon Booial eunwiüdings to promote even quiet family enjoyinont unless frequently cheered by tho presenoe of visitors and atuusemonta imported from a distan oe. Passing this experimental Arcadia, wo soon came beneath thn bluff upon whose vergo once frowned the oastle. To reach it we pursuod a path wliick was evidently ideutical with that used by tlio knights of foriner times - showing, bj the removal of tho obstructinsr rocks and by tho manifest wpar of long uso on suob :::. remained, and ut tlio same tima by Bhe growth of.lavgo trees i-i its hollowed surface, that it was :; very ancient construction. This path brought us along a winding ascent, directly to tho very narrow projection left in front of tin; old entrance. Only two of the remaining walls are perfect enough to show the window and door openings and tho arched passage ways of the lower story, but the (io biïs and portions of walls were sufBciont to jJrovo that thcre o:icc had stood upon the spot a resOrt and stronghold ior sonx: considerable band of prodatory knights with theii retainers. The outer walls onolosed an area of about au aero. Borne pertions appeared nearly perfect', bcing about twelve feet high aud nearly throo feotthick, of solid masonry laid up of the rough 6tone, gravel and cement obtained in tho vicinity. From thcir secure retreat the occupants had a f uil view of the river, the narrow valley, and of tne road OTOT whioh pasecd tho rleh trains of merchandize interchanged between the Vcnetian traders and thoso of Southern In niüiiiy. Soon after cur arrival wo wero serred with tho grand and unespected i ientof a fine thunder shower. Our on!y protection from the rain was bcneath one of the low arches in the wal!, which, fortunately for us, was not less than tour feet thiok, and with the additional aid of our umbrellas furnished a nico shelter. And what incident could havo been more t:mely and romantic? Uur situation, beneath the archway of a castlo of medieval on the beetling brow of a lofty precipice - in tho lone solitudo of a dense - four wai ers from a foreign land - surrounded by mountaina hidden in a veil of cloud, but against whoso rock-ribbcd sides ever and anou the living thunder era hod and reverberated. What situation could have been ïuoro pootically harznonioDs! We could scarcely havo wished it otherwise had the power been ours. Aud then it so soon passed by and tho white canopy of clouds rolled up, disclosing ono another of tho hidden mountain peaks, and at last tho glorious snnlight bursting-over all, it really seemed as if for a brief 8paco somo entchanter's wand liad been summoning tho wonders of nature into our presenco. Of course wc thoaght of Byron's thuuder storm among the Aljis, and admired moro than ever his magniflcent linos, but no nie.asured vorse, oven tho best, cóuld rival the real experieuce of that brief hour. The walk to our rooms was accouiplished in about two hoürs, and it is needloss to odd that tho inoideuts of tho day will long bo remembered. Tho anniversary of the King's birthday occurred during our Btay at P., and on tho mormng of tho 125th of August tlio early souuU of ;;un3 and tramping feet announcd th arrival of the welcome holiday. Tho peasants had donncd their an anvil high up tho hillsidu was doing the dnty of an iuiprOvised cannon, and manifestly the important fact that Lnd-wig II. was bom that day '29 yeara ■ t to pass without notieo. In fuctj tbc peasa'it eau make a holiday on very alight provocution, aud oheap beer furnishea an inexhaustible Bupply of lid to ita dne obsérvanos. A BOmewhat inoro formal colobration was kepta; Ober Orainau, foui miles up thu vuüey. During the night the ii' belated or befogged celebran ts, shouting, ig, and jodoling, could le heard at all hours, and ovon tb: fraéohman'B chant of the hours seemod to be tomewhat confused nnd irregular. Theee holidays, whether secular or reügious, aro apt to led at night wil-h s pretty general driukiiig tiiil noiso at tho sfiloons and on tho stroets, - ercn tho ordinary festival of Sundny forms no exception with many. We find PartenMrohett to be a good uuvc for tho observation of pcasnnt life, :w tho oitizens are thcmsülve.s peastints; and the nuinbcr of simngers not boing so large as to establiah any new forms of society, their habite, dress, mannen and suporstitions havo been ohaiiged luit vcry little. Xhey appear to bo industrious, ;, honest attd contentad. But their industry uv.d cconomy aro of that sm-.ill or what is spmetimea oftlled pi Idling kind which is ever busy with trilles. The wood is much of it pioked up and urried liouio iu baskets or by tho pieoo - the hay and harvests on their little patches of one to five acres is muuh of it t:ikun homo on wbeelbtitTOwa pr a Bort of light dray with two wh( Ble, dratrn by the peasants. In their farming they will put a pat ■ s or garden w in the öen - ter oí' a caeadow, and within the eoiuj:isrí of an acre there is often geen growing a litllo cats, somo vhent, suviio peas, Sax, grass for hay, and oabbages. to raise all he iceds of all kinds of crops, and hehcë labor, though industrious, ia frittered away upon these petty and nuinorous subdivisions; and :ily of tbe rudcst kind, for no change or improvement bo affordod. Tbis same narrow limit for Seld labor cauáeg the universal use around P. of n singlo cuw as tho substitute for a team, whero a wagon and simple luimess have boen ncquired. And tli, 'ii r.othing ia to be thrown ; theoffal is oarefully gathered from tin: street and highway -.vith broora and barrow ; everything Ümt c:m be decoinposed is gathered for tho maiuire ■ is piled in squares vcivy near to the Vont door often ; tho weeds along '1 or in tho field are pulled for ig or compost, and such a tilingas a rag, bit of puper, bark, old shoes, twigs, or garbage of any kind is seldjiu gnen in ghwaj-8. From this indomitable spirit of thrift cilios that pergeverance which yoar after year, for dend oenturies even, has so cleanlj' garneiêd overy spire of gra'ss tEat to raise itself six inches Jügh, over all these thousands of acres of sloping mountain suks, up incrediblo angles and to incrediblo )■ hesethinga easily avoidable. All these valleyswhere ant can live aré filled to thcir uttnost with a population patriotically deB tivo hllla, and happv only when fanned by their own monntain air. All must live and all bas been pareeled out minutely to this end, and asdid their fathers so unquestioning do tlioir dnscend'ints. And what is espeeially truc of theso mountuin homes is to a largo oxtent trno of Gerniiiny s a wholo. A systern of busbandry developed upon very Bmall tenantries may add to industry and thrift and careful cultivation, but it does not expand improvomonts.onlarge the mind, or diffuso wealth among the pcasantry. Tho Diftnners, linlits of life, dross, customs and puporstitions aro all qualified by this condition of things. Distinctions of sex are hare almoet leat sight of in thoir occupntions. Indeed, itsoniotimes appears as if the outdoor irort was more in tho bands of tho women than tho men. Women aro secn as often ns men in tnost of the following avooations : mowing and doing all that is roquired to bc done in tin; h::y iiel;l, reaping the wheat, pulling tho ilax, booing tho potatocs, planting, driving tho cow team, oleaning the stable, eawiug wood, tending mrioon, breaking ilax, threshing, gatheriüg wood, piling mannre, tei mili, and we havo seen them repairing the ïhese employments in turn necessitate the short, ful!, heavy skirt, a low, close fitting bodico over a looso cheiniso with fclcevcs and buttoned at the neck, and hoavy shoes, or oftener at this none at all, and for tho hoad, cither a kerchief tied closely about with the ends hanging behind,'oT a bat like thoso worn by the men. And for holidays this simple gnrb is only modified by tho uso of Letter materia], gaver colors and a profusión of sUvoreoins and other ornampnts which are often tjnito showy and even tastc.'ul. Of conrse this sketch is calculated rather to deeoribe tho peasant young women or those in their activo maturity, not tho ngcd. And T should also remark that at 1'. and vicinity all growu females in s'unday and boliday attire wear a hoge fur cap, of ot'ar or other daik fur, divided at tho top like tho Pope'a tiara, without frontlot, and looking niucli liho thoso cumbrous caps worn by grenadiers on general training days. Tho costumes of tho men areprincipally noticeable for their pointed hats of feit or fur, but about P. they are teldom over xk inohes lügh. In tho band is univorsally seen a feather of somo bird or fowl, or a sprig of the Alpine rose or tho iïower of the edelweia which is much prized. Silver gilt tassels are eommon with tho youth of both sexos. Bright colorcd waietcoats and parti-cólored suspenders, a leathern belt with" widc slido and initials of tho owncr, short Coat set with buttons formed of silvor coins as numerously as possible,- suoh is the general garb of the activo and younger of tho Ultry. Sometimos tho coin used bs ornamenta ia from neoesaity again put in circulation and is readily recognized by the ron gli point in (bu center to which I tbc ejre was atfeched. It is tho general ( practico to usó bnt ono horso to the sinallur cu ad wagons, ff a horse ean be ftfforded ut all, and matead o thüls a single polo is almost rnvariabh oaed, to which tho horso is attach'ed, pre si nting n mos awkward BpWtaolo, am when used f or pleasure riding quite ludicrous. ' :,.re put nrouud 1h possossions or erops here, but a ston at eaoh corner constitutes tho acknowledged bonndary line, and wisps of or hay tied to the lower branches of tho shade trees along the road isanotioc tha' the grasa is not to be walked upon. This practico of setting out shado trees along all tho highways is ono which tends to beaatify the country and deservcs iniitation every where. This absence of f enees does not sKciii to be tlio occasion of anj seriout mconvenience, for in tho inountain districts th"6 animáis at l.rgo aro in the charge of the cowherds on tho MUsides, and in moro lerel portions aro eithcr kopt up entirely or aru sent to pastare in charge of a man ml his shepherd dog whosu sagacious assistanco is a uever-failing gonroe of adfniration whenever we s(! rt. Tho peaaants are an eating pcoplo and always havo their ilonliful lunch in tlie Held. Romo of tho usages and habits of tho people ppen front our stand-point seem to border closely upon Lhe snperstitions ; but thore is great difíiculty in detormining the proper boundary lino botwocn thoso prfletices and usagos which are the proper impulso of t strong relig-'ious sentiment upon the daily life of a poasantry catión is traditional and under y direction, and thoso which ure tho outgrowth of sitporstitiuus regard for supposed constant and myse over their Wi Life. Without any attempt, therefore, to ezplain the causes, I noto here a state of things everywhere lent through tlieso Bavarian highlands ind the Tyrol and can not bc overlooked by the i :i travelor. Froui tho fitst, we have noticed tho groat froquency of erncitixos, - thoy are erery wherej by the roadside, at all road crossings, along pathways thröügh the vineyards and fiolds, at fountaina and springa, on elcvatcd places of resort, upon tho house front, and in all tli roomg of tho house thatare in tisc. In tho villages, and often on the way, the dwellings are ornamented with statues or paintings of the Madonna and sacre(1 in fresco, and tlir-y aro al90 seen in all public parks and gardeus, on public buildings md school houses. Small shrines in brick enclosures are seén far frora tho villages, with all the appurti i i' t:;i; church altar, and nol unfrequently are to bo seei i votivo tableta, waxeu figuj 3 and toet, and offerings. ï'ear tho villages stations v.-ill often be notieed leading up the winding pathway to some small ohapel. Pilgrimage churches are seen which are resorted to for cortain ohjects and upon certain festivals. No hamlet scarcely is so poor or so high araong the hills as to be without its little church. Churchyards have stoups of holy water hung upon small hooks over many trf tho gr aves, and tho passer by often steps to sprinklo it about. Tho peasants revorently bow wh 11 the priest passos and children run to kiss bis hand. Twigs blessed in church nre hung in tho trees of the orchard and forest; seed for planting recoives an inereased vitality through a similar agen oy; the salt for family use during the year is, in like manner, consecrated ; and at tho festival of Mary's ascensión we were greatly intorested to ascertain what possessed all tho littlo boys and girls who seemed to bo running from house to house with bunches and somotimes with armiuls of weeds and ilowers and grasses, inoluding prodigious mullein and hollyhock stalks, wben it proved to bo a day 1 ecrating theso things to be kopt during tho ycar for uso in caso of siokness, thunder showers, &c. And every Sabbath mprning until tho crops are all harvested, a prooessiori of thoso poasants who are engaged in farming is to be seen going lrom tho pilgrimage chapel to the chureh. Mention is not made of these things by way of ridicule, but simply as illustrative of the simple-heartod and trustfnl charactor of tho poasantry in this secluded möantain valle}. The weather was not alwaya of tho bpst during our söjourn of threo weeks in August, but the ti'.ne passed svii'tly and pleasañtly by. Thero wero dolightful rambles along tho mountain sides, winding i!] Vil) ..- 1,000 fet if desircd, to the Pauken fall and ravine and along tho valley, and iti all theso places nice footpaths wero constructed, with comfortitblo bSnches plaoed at eligible spots for fine views and grateful shade, and whoro wö often spent our oceasional sparo hours, accompanied alwaysby a supply of books and peins. Ou rainy daya wo could write our letters or watch tne curious iuoidonts at the public pump and water tank in the streel fronting our window, for rain did not seem to impedo out-door work unlcss very violent. Most of the visitors during our stay wero either German or Rusgian, and very few English, - nor did they generally stay long, but "did" the placo and its vicinity in two or thrce days and then forward. Several artists wero nlways to bo seen startiug out in tho morning and returning at night, witli their stool, steol-pointod stalt', nmbrclla, easel and portfolio. They wero indostrious, and from appearances were plying their art as a business. At P., and ilideed in all theso Alpine bSj it is a most novel and interosting siijlit to witness tho coming homo of tho hords of cows and goats from their pastures 011 tho inountain slopo. Our rooms were direct ly facing the Estorberg, and we h:td a full view of atl tho paths running along its pido, as also of tho principal streef leading in that direetii 11. About 5 P. M. tbc iirst goats could be seen walking and skipping along down tho steep, aliko sure-footed whfther on tho naked rock or tho beaten track, and aftcr them the long, irregular prooossion of fellow goats, with their tinkling littlo bolls, nninbeiing abont ons hundred anrl lif'ty, and all at length reaching lïio street como marching along, generally with great gravity, and each prooeeding at onco or led by tire horirs by small boys to their respectivo stables or kltchen doors. Being of rarioua sizes and colors, oacb with herjingling bell and aften uttering a plaintivo cry when the wisu of grasa -vas offered but withhelct, their appearanoe was alwaya a ploasant Among {bom we noticod Bome with three horns, onc with four, and severa! with no horns at all. Shürtiy aftr the nimble goats crime the long cavalcado of sobór oowb, ouo aftef the other in single iilo, prooeeding with moro caie down somo of the narrow paths which yoara of uso had worn into the side of the 3:111. They were nearly uil of a diify white color. It seomed a littlo curious to seo how conimun, in f act alrnost Universal throughout this part of tho country, is thifllight color of all the cattle, whilo about Bremoa and vioinity black or nearly black was equally general. It was impossiblo to soo without interest nearly two hundred cows Ü;us niarch down rom their high pasturo grounda iñto tho busy streeta with such regularity day after day- stopping at tunes to tustc tho water in nno ankor to poke the ribs of sorno subnrissivo antibelligerent, but most of them going directly as posaible to the snug stables and nice supper of green grass preparad by the loving heöds of their kind po mistresses. Then again at sis ia the morning (a good hint togetupj thefaithful berdaman would toot hia unreneieal ram's hom at tho street cor.;...:, áfcd forthwith tho current of mingled goats and cows would begin to pöur in from 11 directions and, disproving the ordinary I gravitation, fiow steadily en, u-o tho street and np the hill. This feature of hfo in tho Tyrol continuos uninterruptedly day after day from spring to tho lato iV.l. Another of t.lio entertainments which our fortúnate looality añbrded each day, oame off at tho public pump, beginning at earlymorn and conttnuing nntil nightfalL Hither carao tho pearant womon "rom tho four streots which centered beforo our windows, to perfora that variety of duties which in our 'and would have 'allen principally among the indoor subHvision. Tho clothes wanhing was intt - a vigorous swashing fröm side to side.somc hard pounding with a flat wooden gpatnla, a littlo soap and lean rul served to complete the oporation. Hithcr carrots, potatoea, turnir, and cuions ironght to undergo tho proliminary cleansingfordinner; herotho pono lióos reosived a eerub'oing both insido ind out, while tho carriors of waier in tobe, huckets and bottles wero comng and going all tho time- tho buckets íovor having bails, but only a simple ransvexse immovablc handle or a singlo trn-o prolonged upward about a foot, with a hole to insert the fingors ncar the roter tdp of the vcssol. Kettlea and rying pana, tin waro and carthen pots were hero scoured and cleansed with the agency of a tuft of grass pulled from tho waysido, and a littlo sand always lying around them, and as tho day drew towards its close a series of naltcd feet reoeivod their needod ablution. The arnival of purification for tho tank itolf came off but onco in each wek. These sights, which are not fancifúí but cal, were not morcly entertainingfor our die hours, but good subjects of study to hoso who would note tho habite of the eople. It may bo stated in this connocion that it is a nearly universal practico n Gormany, at public as woll as private ïousos, to uso glass bottles or decanters or water on the table and for washstands. During our stay at P., fron August 8th o the 2ëth, the outting of hay, reaping of oats and wbeat, and pulling of peas ind flax wero constantly progressing, and nainly undor tho management of tho vomen. On tho 2l2d of August, by nonurrenoe or by a singular coiheidenco nerely, a great and gonoral pounding ïorvaded the air, whieh we soon discovr.'d to be produced by a great and general flax-threshing, which continued for wo or threo days. This incident, it hould bo observad, dorived its peculiar nterest from the fact that in all the smaler villages of Öemiany tho barn or stade occupies one end of the common dwelings, from which it is tometime soparated by a hall, so that theso threghirig floors vhioh opencd dlreetly üpon the street, nade a very general distribution of this hreshing mania. Of those who swung ho flaiis, Tennyson's linea may bo adoptd as a sufficient doscription : 11in;i mon, Iurb v;nmvv, hronzeil witli liciilth and s ind and rain, And lubor." Vurking generally two or threo together and with a will, the rapid reitoration of ho innfiled thud, thud, thud, coming 'rom all directions (our own house includd), and modulated by its greater or less listanoe, was not entiroly unmii In all this seoming imposition. of so nuch drudgery upon the wonicu, no 8pisaranceof relnctant iabmiaaiön is manfestod, but on tho contrary a most cheerul aoooptonoe of the positicn. Thisconlition of things would seom to bo a pracical solution of tho woman qnestion so ar as cmploymonts enter into it, yot few vould care to introdaoe it generally into ho usages of American lii'o. Tho trnth ooms to be that herc it finds a satisfactoy causo in tho condition of feudal socie;y, which ha3 cntailed its practico upon ing ages, and haa been perpotuv tho extremely small sibdirisions nto which tho land is aiportiohed among he peasantry. Tho condition of tho inlividual is gonerally consistent with tho conditions surrounding him, hero and overywhoro. But wo aro about to leave theso hi;;liands. Our stay has boen long enough o ontor permanontly into tho web of our Nrhlre lives, and its charmingscenory and tlie simple habits of tho people, so wel ittcd for the huinblo comforts of these narrow vales nnd measureless mountniri vill long form u, ploasinj portion of our memories of Europuun travel. It was hare we jnarle our flrst iutimato acquaintaiK.o with thu cvorlastiiig liills, and as wo go i'arthcr among their baunts in tho Tyrol. shall havo 110 fear tluit our Ioto ot' Is ature, as sho sports with tho grand and the beautiful through all this Alpino roeion, will either woary or pull. You wil! hoar of our trip to Iunsbiuck somo othor time. Ever yours.