Foreign Correspondence

Our transition frorn the genial winter tomperature of Rome to tbe nearly freczing spring atmosphere of Geneva though not very hurried was yet much too fast for our personal comfort ; but " things without remedy should be without rejard" and we wilt not complain. Our previous notes olosed with uur arrival ut Genoa, one of the most beautiful oi' Europaan cities. Not that there are no narro w and veiy crooked streets, for there are plenty of theni ; not that there are no lisagreeable sights on the wharvps and jecasionally elsewhere, for we can recall several ; but take it all in all, the picturssqueness and beauty of its fortress jtüwned ampitheater of hills, the almost universal claanliness, the utter absence of tumble-down edifices and hovels, the truly Italian villas which cover the vicinity for miles, the stirring activity of its streets and wharvus, and its harbur jrowded with shipping and the imprcsïion is strongly feit that Genoa is not 3nly a beautiful city but a thoroughly live one. This general impression is fully xinfirmed by inoro particular observation. Our rooms overlooked the harbor with its forest of i-hipping und the busy Piazza Scarricaniento, as also the Grand ïerrace Marmóreo, and scènes of active traiKe ind street life were always being enacted in our view. Particularly animated was bhe piazza quito early in the morning, tbr there was then a vast multitude of liborersassembloddemanding labor for all when there was einployment for but 75 per cent. of the upplicants, and lots were irawn to indícate the lucky ones for each lay, which was perhaps as fair as any svay ; but the laborers formed a sort ot' uild and domanded a minimum of 4 francs per diem fur all, those who were Purnished with work and those who were not. This difference was the occasion of loud discussions, much voting, occasional merriment, and excitenient all the time trom 6 1-2 to 8 A. lt. overy morning, and two companies of soldiers were always itationed in the piazza to aid the pólice n case of emergency. How it terminrttad we did not learn, but it exhibited the people in a new aspect to us, nor san we say that a New York band of laborers on ;he wharves could thus assemble in hunïreds for a similar purpose and deport themselves any better. The Grand Terraca spoken of above is i very fine structure of marble, onr-third 3f a ruile in length anl about 45 feet in width, by perhaps 25 feet high, one-half the width next the harbor being devoted o offices and salesrooms of such inerïhandise as is suitod to such a locality, the half next the street being a lofty and noble covercd arcade ; but the great novelty and beauty of the edifice consists in the formation of the roof into a grand terrace promenade over its entire length md width. Ascending by a circular itairway at the ceutor or the northern ixtrumity we firid ourselvus upon this splendid marblo pavement, smooth apd jlean as a Hoor, protected on each sido by substantial balustrades of masonry, with in incliuation which frees itself f rom water yet so slight as to be imperceptible Linder the feet ; and hcre, in the early part of the day or toward evening, after the sultriness of the mid-day hourg are passed, one can take his constitutional or his recreative walk, where the who!e shipping of the harbor lies spread out upon one side and tbe noble lino of palatial hotels are stretched along the other, ust high enough for a fine survey of both and out of the dirt, confusión, and annoyance of all vehicles. Of its kind wo have no whero seen anything to compare with this unequaled promenade. It can only be enjoyed when the weather is suitable and at proper hours, for it admits of no protection against the hot sunshine, wind or storms; but it offers a chance for relaxation and sight-seeing in a locahty that ordinarily is almost inaccessible, especially to ladies, in all seaport cities. And it was a pleasant pastime indeed to lean over the balustrade and take note of the red capped boatmen plying their vocation in their barcas, rowing in all directions, carrying out parties for pleasure or passengers to or trom the vessels Hing off ín the bay, the loading and unloading, the people of all nations with their many tongues and costumes, the steamers of our own America and every commercial country, with sailing vessels innumerable froin all the Mediterranean ports and sonie from beyond the seas. Ou the other side was the not less varied and busjr aspect of the crowded street and piazza. Au hour of observatiou here more than once recalled the wharves and activity of our own metropolis, though far less extensive of course. Genoa is rapidly growing in importance, having aheady a population of nearly 15U,000, and assured in the posses sion of a permanent prominence, as a commercial city and seaport, over all others in Italy. It is also so attractive in its surroundings, its climate, and accessibility, that a large accession must constautly be made not only to its busv resideutï but to its transient population Theru is a singular concentration of the most active and better class of traffic upon u line of streets which form nearly three-fourths of a circle midway through the better portion of the city, and the stranger has only keep in the erowd and he is sure to pass in review the entire series of gay shops of all kinds, rupresenting tlie local specialties and general merchandise of the city. The display of ñowers, faucy goods, confectious, jewelry, and particularly a kind of fiüagre work in gold and silver gilt, of silk and velvet i goods, was very noticeable. And in tha toilettes of tliose upon the streets there was apparontly more tante and richness displayed than in Homo. There was a head gear worn by tlie well dressed fomales of the midd'e ciases whioh was : quite showy, and but lor the fact that it was not confmed to the young or pretty might be doemed ooquetti3h in appoaranee. It was a very thin fabrio, like muslin, thrown over the head and ] fastened very simply, wliile the long ends floated loosely down for nearly a yard over the shoulders, reminding us of so many brides jast oscaped from some nuptial ceremony. Along these streets very i naturally wero to be found most, or at least many, of the principal palaces, public buildings, and churches ; but leading off from these comparatively spacious streets, what a perfect ambages of the narrowest, crookedest, and stoepost byways, lañes, and passages ! Yet theso were calkd streets, aud had also their shops and show windows and active traffie, and when wandeling along these, where of conrse no carriagcs or wheeled vehicles could intrude, but where the cooking shops and provisión stores were frequent, we wero much reminded of Yenice by the quiet possessiou of the entire passages by pedestrians and the solid floor liko paement of them uil. One of the fust inquines the American traveler rnakes is quite naturally after the local meniorials there preserved of Columbus ; and if ono's arrival is in tho day time, he is greeted as soon as ho emerges from the depot with a noble monument surmouuted by the statue of the great diseoverer. At tho feet oí' Columbus kueels tho symbolical figure of America looJiing up at his face, and the statue ltself leans slightly up an anchor. Four allegorical figures of Religión, Oeography, Force, aud Wisdom, stand upon the four corners, and the inscription ' Christoforo Colombo, a Patria," ail in pure white marble, completes a very suitable and appropriate monument, aronnd which is a Bmall display of shrubbery. Direetly opposite the depot stands, in tho angle betvveen two approaching streets, the so called palace of Columbu?, bearing on its front, inscribéd in large letters, " Christoforo Colombo, Genovese, scofore l'America." With what credibility we thould receive the statement that this house, quite modern in appearanee, ever had any personal relation to Columbus as his residence or otheiwise we not determine, for strange to say there does not appear to have been any comrnendablo effi rt to i verify aud preserve such metnorialg as would be authentic and interesting from their association with one of their greatest names and. wil h his discovcries. In coDsequence of this there is but a very meager show cf aught that will gr.itüy an American curioeity in this direction. In the Palazqo del Municipio, en about the time of the discovery of America, are preserved three authentic letters from Columbus to different partios, not ai all in reference to his discovery, a portrait which was supposed to be a lik but not claimed to be indisputably an original, and this was all. Peihaps wo had expected too much of a museum here in öenoa, oí objects pertaining to the personal history and discoveries of the great navigator : be that as it inay we were disappointed and our regrets wero not at all lessened when a few hours after we had the pleasuro of going through tho palaco of the Prince Doria. It was fitted up and occupied by he, great man of Genoese history, Andrea Doria, who was 27 years of age when Columbus accompli.shed a triumph before which all that the Dorias and Guelphs of Genoa have done sink into real insignificaace ; yet here to-day we can seo the old arm chair, the portrait, the bedstead, even china ware with which the table was spread, and many other authentic memorials identified with the prineo an$ propeily enough highly prized ; but how rauch more would we have been delighted to soe an equal number of objects associated with the persou of Columbus. Walking upon the grand terraco we saw in a niche of an old building opposite, a statue of Columbus but without date or any indicia to show the occasion of its being there. Besides the objects above named seen by us in the Doria P_ilaee were the fine frescoes with which it was decorated by P. del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael. The saloon ceiliiig has a representation of Júpiter overthrowing the giants, by the same artist, and other decorations in this aud other rooms make the palace well worth a visit. A view of the harbor from the balcony is extrcmely fine, and the garden benoatli was temptingly beautiful with flowers and golden orange trees laden with fruit. Anfitiiei of the interesting palaees to which the public have access is Palazzo Brignolc. sometimes called palazzo rosso, beeause of its very bright red color. The secoud floor coutains a series of eight spaeious rooms, well lighted, in which isduplayed a very good collection of paintings, fully equal in general merit to any of those m private palaces at Home, if the Borghese be excepted One of the most pleasaut spots in the city is the small but very judioiously improved park of Aquu Sola, iuunediately in connection with ihe Tilla Negro adjoinitig. The latter seeins to be a vast artificial creation of rock wolk, about which winding paths ascend, bordered by a íine growth of choice shrubbery, and leading by üie deus and cages oí various animáis and birds which are here cared for, aud finaüy reaching a plateau of perhaps half and acre, at least one hundred feet abovo the park which lies a:most perpendicularly bplow. The lookout thus atï'orded is exceedingly beautiful. This ungular promineuoe is prinoipally a natural npheaval of limestone rock, but it has been admiratbly supplemented by artificial additions and in a veiy limited ppace embraces a wonderful variety of charming works aud shady retreati. In order to got a genend survey M well is a very intermting and extended view if thu ftity and vicinity vo viaited tho jhurch of ÍS. Maria di Cariguano, whioh .9 situated upon a considerable elevation ie bay, at the southeast eud of the jity, and moreover has a dome modeled ifter that of St. Peter's, to which the as;eut is matje by 2J0 steps, with opporiunities to stop tbr au occasional lookout 5U the way. When the highest point is ittdined theru is an excellent balustrade, within which a person can walk about the lantern of tho dome without any sensu of dangcr and gut a far reachiug riew on every side: of the very loftyhills ilong tho highest suiumit of whieh extends tho strong f'ortificatioug that envirou the citj ; of the coasts east and west For a long distance, bright with clustering villages; of the fair bosoiu of the bay dotted with many sails ; and of tho snugly nestling city itself, füling all the valley and expandig upward far upon the dopes of the encircling hil's. Surely it was a fair sight to .behold and we adopt without roservation all that bus been claimed for the fair city. Genoa is inieed superb, when seen under a sky so genial and clear as that with which we were favored. In the church itself there is nothing of especial interest. None of the churchcs have any claims to extended notice. The Catbedral has a showy facade of black and white marble with various decorations, the best of which aro two recumbont lions, one on each side of tho porch, which are romarkably fine colossal figures. In ono of tho chapéis is a John the Baptist and also a Madonna and child by Sansavino. We did not aak the sacristán to show us tho vessel from whieh (they say) Christ and tho disciples partook of the Paschal Lamb, captured by tho Genovese during tho crusadesThe Jesuit church of S. Ambrogia is very richly decorated with gilt stucco ceiling, and the High Altar has a Circumcision, by Rubena, and another altar pieco is an Assuuiptiou by Guido Ileni. The most gorgeously finished church is the " Annunciation," A. D. 1487, with a good entrance but an incomplete facade. The oeiliug is very heavily adorued with stucco panneling and raised work, and the bntire gilding is so solid and bright ihat it appears really golden. The Bupporting columns of the aisles are of white marble inluid with red, and the altar decorations are equally profuso. It happened to be the festival of the Annuneiation when we were, thoro and the at tendance was largo. Ono fair dny, which however was rather warm for tha visit though only iit) latter part of March, we went back uto the valley nearly two miles from the h ivbor, to the Campo Santo, a cemetery, and feit well repaid by what we saw. The grounds - enclosed by the fine substantial arcades on three sides, and by the noule building which is constructed along the hill slope on the other, having ifs nchitectural merit well preserved by a lofty dome in the center - are about ten acres, while in tho rear and extending furthor up the hill sido with fine path ways and sniall chapéis is a still larger area. The monuments arranged along the arcade were almost unexceptionably good, sorae very beautiful. Many of the designs were quite elabórate and embrac-, ed teveral figures of tho finest statuary and it is plain that in these memorials a very general inclination to lavish expendituro has been indulged by those no doubt who could itfford it. The nnmber and beauty of these costly moumcnts f,r exuecded anything we have before seen, and yet all was in the utmost good taste. Tho building referred to along the hill is furnished with three stories, consisting of long corridors of niches recessed in the side walls of capacity to receive eofiins of ordinary size, and which when occupied were closed with a white marble slab of uniform shape and finish and sealed up. The name, age, etc., of tho deceased was inscribod upon this slab. There were six of these niches in height and each tier occupied not exceeding 7 or 8 feet, and the whole corridor, thus economicully planned and fully occupied, presented to tho eye nothing but the utmost sinnilicity and neatness, the finely polished slabs of white marble cotrasting well with the light brown of the walls. The space left free for passage was at least ten feet in width, well ventilated and sufficiently lighted, and thero was literally nothing apparent to the senses to make an inspection of the place offensive or disagreeable. Nowhere havo wa found so perfect and complete a system of buriiil as was thus em" braced within the arcades, corridors and open groitnds of this oemetery, and at the samo time upou a scale of maguiiicent proportions. All tho hill sides of this iegion appeared to be set with pcach trees which were just beginning to blossom, and auiong tlicisi the grajje is also cultivated. Ornnges also are abundantly grown here ■ng the coast, and as we go from this place they will gradually disappear from culÜYation. We should do injustice to this delightfdl place wtre we not to nntitio'.i the splendid sea views which can be had from the streot for pedestiuiiis, luid out uloug the cliiï.s completely around the sourheast poitiou of the city, and from ono to two hundred feet above tho beach, passing through portions of the fortifications in tbat quaiter, where heavy guns, shot and shell are very quietly awaiting the hour when service may be needed. The shores all along, except the mouths of narrow valleys where small streams have made their w;iy, are very abrupt and generalij' quite high, and only hero and there for short distances did the sea seud up those regular pulsations of rolling surf upon a pobbly beach which are so beautitul to 1 such musio to hear, nor were we able to got access even to these without going soma distance out of the city. We spant a very agreeable four days in Grenoa and believe that as many week might bo mado enjoyablo there and in ita ricinity. We took tickets to Pavía and at A. M. doparted on our way through an lmost continuous series of villagea and illas for severa] miles, lying behind tha iromontüry through which we wero unnele'A almost at onco on loaving tba epot. We luid not extended our -valks nto that undiscovered countjy, and it 'ormed a very agrecablo surprise to find almost anothor Genoa so near. Eut this ide to Pavia and our pilgrimage to tha oelebrated Oarthusian Monastory at Cortosa must be described in atiotUor ltjtter, and for inany a long year, no .doubt, we leave the IVTeditorranean and its mild saluibrious air for the North. (xood by. Yours ever, J. M. WHEELER.