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Foreign Correspondence

Foreign Correspondence image
Parent Issue
Day
5
Month
September
Year
1873
Copyright
Public Domain
OCR Text

But what did we see in Geneva 'i Among the very uoticeablo sights, the stranger will searcely fail to notico the singular display made by its chimneys. The place is notcd for its constant windn, and in order to meet this contingency the chimneys are not only made very massive, but numorous, and from the top of each, running up and out at all angles, aro iron pipes varying in number from one to ten, and in length from three feet to fifteen. This nrrangement is so prevalent and conspicuous that it gives to tho city a very bristling and peculiar appearance, quite as singular as the heavy Btoncs with which in tho Bavarian highlands the shingles are laden as an antidote against tho winde. Of conrse We did not fail upon the first, and nearly only cloar day we had, to take a good long look at the distan t but readily distinguishable Mont Blanc Kangc, lying back far southward and covored with snow ; but like all remoto objects, aeen between the apparently higher mountains niuch ncarer, its vast superiority of ole vation wa8 comparati vely lost. It takes a long time to edúcate the eye to this deceptive impression in regard to altitudes in mountain scenery ; but the dirfioulty is very muoh lessened when we have the assistance of the snow lino, always so distinctly traceableamong this Alpine scenery, and indeed on all the mountains which reach above the plains sufficiently, and the nearer and seemingly higher mountain, if bare tothe summit, is at once set down as below the height of another in tho background, seen at a smaller angle, but whose top is whitened with snow. The kir.g of Europeun mountains is one the Lions of Geneva and is seen to best advantage toward evening, when the skies are propitious, which is not always or often the case. As a substitute for the real Mout Blanc upon foggy days the visitor is at liberty to see, for a trirlingconsideration, a relief of the whole group upon a grand scale made of lime wood, '24 feet in length and ten feet in width. But though curious as a work of patiënt labor and study we cannot recommend it as a satisfactory method of getting an acquaintanco with theinountain itself. ïhe Cathedral is really quite a fine edifice of the llth oentury, and the interior, with its lofty archud nave and aisles makes a very pleasing impression, notwithstanding its barrenness of adornment. Some of the stained glass windows were excellent and the stalls worth inspeotion, but the monuments, with but few exceptions, were extremely rude and unattractive. Tho black marble sarcophagus, resting upon liona surmounted by a sitting statue of the Duke of Itohan, a leader of the Protestants who feil at Eheinfelden, in 1630, is the best. A chair f'ormerly used by Calvin is placed in the pulpit. We had a natural desire to see at least the exterior oí the house of the great Eeformer whose name gives appellation to ono of the loading systems of Protestant Theology, and as wo left the Cathedral, and quite near the spot too, strangely enough wo made several inquiries lor the place in vain. At length we got the proper inforniation and saw the modest dweiling iu which lie lived for about 20 years prior to hisdeath, in' 1Ö64. ïhe grave of Calviu in the old cemetery of Plain Palais has becoiue completely undistinguishable and ctnnot now be identified. Pursuing our national instiuets we continued our way to the Hotel do Ville now famouB as the place where the great Tribunal of Arbitration sat and allowed for dinnages by the Alabama and other ressels a suia nearly doublé the amouut that there aro any proper laimunts for. The building is used by the municipal authorities, and after long waiting and much talk we wero finally inforined that it was impossible to soe the room, but were told that we could soe the Arsenal opposite- a piece of informatiou for which wo had no use. It was an unfailing amusement, aa well as a very characteristic spectacle along the river, to soe the floating batteries in which all the appurtenances for clothes-washing were duly arranged, each literally crowded by hundreds of the ever busy washerwomen - a space of about three feet being assigned to each. ïhis department of douiestic work appeared to be under public guardiauship or, at least, public regulation, aud manifestly was h popular institution. The Russian Church, situated on an eminenco in the suburbs not far from the Observatory, presented to us a novel and intoresting sight, with its glittering niosque-like domes, peculiar to the architecture ot the Greek churches. ïhere are always a goodly number of Eussiaus resident at Geneva, and, indeed, in all the cities of Southern Europe, and they are frequently to be met, especially at the walering places and other popular reports. Sevoral agreeable lodgers at our Pension were froia that cold country, but like most ot' that people who travel spoke French and Germán with fluency. Speaking of Pensions recalls anothcr of the institutions of this city, and of tho whole lake borders. Il' a porsou intondö staying for several days at any of these places along this lake, it is the common and advisable practico to take lodgings at once in one of these private boarding houses, which are more numerous than hotels and much loss expensive, with accommodations suitable for the taste of all, and patronized by the respectable class of travelers. D uring our stay in Gene va, as well as at the upper end of the lake, we found every comfort and excellent companionship at the Pensions. Uur rooms overlooked the place and quay in which stands the monument which was ercctod to commemorate tho union of the city with the Swiss Confederation. It consista of two fetuale figures, in bronze, of noble form and feature, standing with one arm of each thrown gracefully around the other, and being on an elevated pedestal eonstitutcs the finest work of the kind in the city. We took a view of the fivo eagles which belong to tho city and feed at the public expense, as wo passed down the quay one day. but do not think they thrive as well at the public crib as nome of the fuatherless bipeds do in sonie countries. Tho eagle forms the armorial emblem of the Cantón. We had a very pleasant excursión down the Rhone to the junction of the "swift-shooting Arve," and for some distance along the latter in the direction of the Saleve, a preoipitous mountain which was still quite white at its top with the winter's saow. Thero is much in tho surroundings of this city which give it many attractioas tiüt visible in its more compact limita. The hills and their smiling villas wero really charming with the early budding promisea of spring in their shrubbery and well clipped hodges, and the views of the lake and city with its far extending suburbs and the grand raountains iu tho background wero as beautiful na they have bien claimed to be. Another of our excursions was to Terney - where Voltaire resided and made himself the very Prince of Atheism. His chateau and the large adjoining grounds are very attractively located on au eminence just above the struggling village, and we spent a very agreeable hour in their examination and in picking the wild flowers with which the forest park was filled. We were shown many things. personal mementoes of the noted man. His own poitrait in advancedlife ; one of Frederick the Great, who so long entertained hiin and gavo him this very red-faced, life-sized portrait; algo a f uil length portrait of the Eiupress of Russia, likewise tt gift from herself, and several other piotures ; his bed tablfc, chairs, etc. Among the prints upon the wall was ono of our Minister to France at that time - Franklin. Just at the left and nearly in front of the chateau stands the celebrated church (as it bas been called) bearing the oft-quoted insoription " Deo Erexit Voltaire." It is, in fact, bnt a small stone struoture, about 14x18 feet in size. built in somo reseinblance to a church, and at the present time, as fur as we could see, filled with hay and farm producís and presenting an appearanee of utter neglect, except that quite recently several ivy vines have been set about its front. But we are indebted to Voltaire for a vasy pleasant excursión and we owe hiin nothing more as we look at things Theologically. üf course we did uot fail to notice the very ampie and excellent buildings erected for educational purposes. In this respect Geneva takes a high position, and a very considerable number of foreign patrons send thither their children, while many families frora abroad make it a point to tarry thero on this account. But strange to say, notwithstanding its high poBition as one of the leading cities in Europe in the cause of education and Protestantism, it was oar misf'ortune to see several persons in the more advanced stages of drunkenness - more, in fact, in one short week than in tho eleven months spent in various places through Central and Eastern Europe. How or why this should be we do not pretend to explain. We wished to visit tbe upper end of the lake, and in order to vary the route and stop at Coppet and Lausanne we took the north shore railroad. The road does not attain any considerable elevation above the lake, but keeps so closely along its margin that tho viowsare exceedingly fine at times, enibraciug the entire aouthern shore, and through the intervals affording glimpsos beyond into the Mont Blanc group, while the intormediate panse of the azare lake, with hero and therc its bird-like crtift skimming along undei' thcir two lattern sails, and an occasional Btoainer or sniall boat was almost constantly to be seen. Tho northern shore and hill slopes being also quite ueautiful and uuder excellent cultivation - the vineyards becoming quite frequent as we got f'urther among the mountain eastward. Coppet was reached in little over an hour, and at the small uninviting station we got off to pay our respecta to the inemory of one of the most notable nomen of France or, indeed, of auy land - Madame de Stael. In 1790 her father retired from Paris and became the propiietor of the chateau or castle, as it is variously ternied.and the adjoining land, and in 1810, an exile by decree of Nipoleon who feared her influenoe, she too followed, and this little, unattractive village became the gathering point for hundreds of tho most distinguished men and women of the time. We were politely, but with some little reserve on the part of the elderly tórnale custodian, shown through several rooms upon the first floor and tho onebelow. The study above was a fine room of perhaps 20 feet square and arranged in tho manner the distiuguished authoress prefurred - her table with its many conveniences for writing, with her easy ohair before it, stood centrally in the room. Upon the walls wero hung variou8 historical and óthers engraviugs, among which was one of the signers of our own Declaration of Indepoiidence, beneath which were the signatures which aro usually attached in prints of the Declaratiou itself. Everything appeared commodious and simple. In the reception saloon adjoining were the portraits of Madame do iStael herself, by David, a very truthful likeness evidently, and of her father, mother, daughter, and son-inlaw, Duko de Broglie, the present ownor of tho property. Adjoining this was the billiard room, and several other tablos with coinplicated games, for the exerciso and amusement of guests who desired such. Below upon the ground floor was the library, a room of considerable size with book-cases upon all th walls, said to bo filled with books but hidden from view by an inner curtain. A tablo and huge pile of folios occupied the center. Busts of Xeckar and ;i few pictures were the only adornuients. The adjoining room was her own private apartment and bed room, tho bed still standing in its place by the wall, and here, too, was a well arranged study table ready for use. A few religiouB pictures, in which ono of the Pojhis was n loading figure, hung upon the walla. And this was ono of tho places where doubtless much of her labor was also dono. We looked in vain for portraits of her gi eat triend and admirer, Madame Recamier, and of others assoeiated with her history. The extended park adjoining the chateau was not laid out with any great expense in artificial adjuncts, but the paths lüd through the nativo wood and along a small rivulet, and we spent an hour in gathnring the flowers wliich wero abundant, and in roviug over woods at large most agroeably. Leaving this portion of the property we ciossed the street to get aocess to the small gravo enolosed with a high stone wall, in which stands the small burial chapel of Neckar, bis celebrated daughter, and other members of tho family, but did not sucot-fd. We were told that the remains of the celebrated woman are proserved in a glass case in spirits annually renewed - a mode of sepulture not conimun to say the least. In the little village churoh were various tokens of the former residence of thU fauiily here. We shall long ivoall with pleasure the three hours spent by us at Coppet, and they will invest Corione with a doublé fasciuation. We rtitiched 1 1 iiusnnuo that afternoon about 6 o'eloek, having passed over soine most beautiful country tilled with that careful culture which characterizes this people, whether in the open field or the terraced vineyards upon the steep mountain sirles. The villages, too, were interestiug. botk in appearance and generalij f rom iissooiation. At Iyon, Carnot, and Joseph Bonaparte forinarly resided for i time At Holle the General La Harpe was born and a beautiful obelisk to his numory is picturesquely loeated upon asmall island in the lakë. At Morgues is the anoient eastle of Vufflens, constructed by the good Queen Bertha, and tbrough au opening in the opposite mountains is had one of the best views of Mont Blanc in its ïnajeatic altitude. Lausanne is loftily located upon the hill somewhat back from the lake shore and depot and presenta a fine appearnee when seen from a distance. It is a well built city but has very little level grcund to boast of, some of the in-s equaüties being very great, in one place such as to require the construction of a very extensive bridge called the " Grand Pont," and in another instance we recollec.t being quite near the Cathedral, but in order to reach it without descending a long plane and ascending another, we had to go down about 150 wooden steps to the market place and then at once climb again up 164 more. This irregular surface gives great variety of scenery, and sometimes featurps of real beauty to the placo. Such is the Terrace, a long ridge of no great breadth which overlooks the lake, once a church yard but now converted into a most delightful promenade, near which is the garden where Gibbon wrote the last Unes of his history ; and such also is the romantic ravine into and along which wtj passed on returning from an excursión to the " Signal." l$y the way, this last named elevation is over 200 fet above the level of the lake, and when attaincd aft'ords one of the most splendid prospects it has been our fortune to see, though greatly marred in our case by the threatening weather, but the path we followed in returning, which desoended into the profound valloy referred to, was of its kind, one of the most wildly, charming and interesting which is to be found anywhere. The Cathedral is an edifice of no great exterior beauty, though one of the most interesting historically in Switzerland, dating from the 13th century, but is made quite eftective within by the the lofty height of the aisles, the graceful, clustered columns, and the light arcade which encircles tho nave and transepts. Thero are several interesting old monuments, though with a singlo exception of no artistic oxcellonce. That erected to the wife of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, 1808, is ot' more than usual merit in execution as well as in novelty of design, the small bas-rehefs on the pedestals supporting the statue of the deceased being quite classical and resembling tho Archaic reliëfs seen upon ancieni monuments. Another oldsr monument to Otto of Graudson, A. D. 1399, is noticoable because tho roclining figure, representing a Knight in full armor and well executed in marble, is finished without any hands. The Sacristan'sexplanation may be mythical but seemed not unroasonable, that as the deceased feil in a duel he had to some extent forfeited his rights of sepulture in a Christian church, and this peculiar memorial in, which the hands which he sought to imbue in a fellow being's blood were cut ofF, was in perpetual expiation of his offense and a condition upon his interment. The Cathedral had in early times boen used for Roman Catholic worship, and our attoution was oalled to four deeply worn cavities in the solid stone pavcinont beneath the dome where, as it is said, a Madonna formerly stood, the cavities being thus t'ormed by the constant kneeling at tha sanie spot for centuries of credulous devotion. It seemed ineredible, yet the facts of these places being worn from two to three inches deep was palpable and inexplicable without some such aid. Üur stay in tho pleasant city was necessarily quite brief, but we enjnyed it niucb_ Letters of a kind friend at Ann Arbor brought us very agreeable interviews with the Buigomeister, the great man of tbeso Swis cities, whom we called upon at the oíd Episcopal castle, and with his brother, one of the most eminent physiciaus of the place, both conversed with considerable fluency in English. This city is strongly Protestant, but tiie manner in which the people observo Oood Friday is in strong contrast ovon to our own regard for tho Holy Sabbath. There was a universal closing of all plactiS of business for tho catire day, and u. very goneral attvndance apon the places of worship. Ever youis, J. M. WHEELER.

Article

Subjects
Old News
Michigan Argus