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Foreign Correspondence

Foreign Correspondence image
Parent Issue
Day
24
Month
October
Year
1873
Copyright
Public Domain
OCR Text

Paris, June 4, 1873. One tires of constant aight-seeing in the city, and so we vury our gratiiication by taking an occasional excursión outside. Such an airing we took ono day in a trip to Versailles - a short hour's ride by rail and the whole distance thoroughly interesting. The road traverses the river bank west of the city, upon which St. Cloud, Scores, Isay, and othor villages are situaterl, and the views of the city are quite admirable. Versailles is but a dull and uninteresting place aside from the palace which Louis XIV. caused to be erected here, in order to get out of sight of the Tower of St. Denis, the royal burial place, and the largo body of soldiers which are kept constantly stationed here. No on e cares to visit the place, but rather goes on directly to the palace and its extensive grounds, fountains, etc, lying at its western extremity. Upon entering the gate from the Place d' Armes we find ourselves in an ampie open court around which, upon high pedestals, stand two rows of fine statues of some of the most celebrated citizens of France, and in the center an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. Proceeding still further we entered into the smaller Court Royal, embraced betwesn the lateral wings of the palace, and as it happened to be the hour of inorriing service, had be unexpected pleasure of witnessing he culebration of Mass in tho beautiful hapel of the palace where Kings and Queens, Eniperors and Empresses, aud itled personages of all degrees, have in ther days assembled in open acknowldgment of a Power higher far than mncipalities and powers. The Chapel s exceedingly chaste in all its adornments, there being a general prevalence f delicate beauty and simplicity in tho 'rescoes, stained glass, and even gilding. t has a gallery and must seat iu all perïaps 500 persous. The seats in the body f the Chapel are upholetered benches without backs or head rests in front, and ot at all calculated for successful feats f somnolence. A fair demoiselle preented the the paten for oontributions, jreceded by a faraous old soldier of a sex;on with a golden-headed baton as long s himself, and bis cocked hat (which was ot removed). The singing by ;i few oices only was exceedingly fine. We aw the Hall of Deputies but they were ot in session until a fewdays later and vit.h what result when they did meet rou are already iuformed : the governïent of Thiers overthrown, the liberáis riuinphant, the leader of their armies nade President, and all, as yet, peaceful cquiescence, when in other days such vents were only heralded to the world mid the tumult of revolution or a coup ' etat. Going now to the Museum, as it is alled, a collection of historical pictures nd portraits fouuded by Louis Philippe nd since continued, until it is now one f the most extensive galleries of modern orks in painting and sculpturo on the ontinent. Unfortunately in tho recent war it became the headquarters of the cing of Prussia for about six inonths 'rom Sept. 1870, and a great portiou of iie building was used as a military hoslital, aud though the pictures were care'ully protected from in jury, by removal nd covering, there was a subsequent necessity forathorough renovation of the difice which has not yet been comploted, nd only a comparativelv small portion s yet opened to the jmblic. It is said ;hat a person who wishes to walk through ,he entire suite of rooms dnvoted to this gallery without once stepping for any xamination will require 1. 1-4 hours. 'he ground floor and first and second tories of the immense edifice have been almost wholly appropriated to its use, and the most striking public events in ,he históry of Prance and its sovereigne, 'rom the time of Charlemagne to the presnt, are here displayed on canvas by the most distinguished French and Dutch artists of this country, every picture emiracing veiitablo portraits of the great men who distinguished themselves in the events tlms commemorated. Among hese, we of course did not feel surprised ;o see the siege of Yorktown, where Laayette and Kochambeau shared with Washington the honors of that great event. This picture, like the whole thirty-three in this división, is very large and they are regarded as chef d' oeuvre of the respective artists. Coudar is the artist of this particular picture, and the series completéis the inagnificent hall tormed the Gallerie des batailles. Eslecially interesting are the portraits from ife of many of those whose name are so familiar in the history of this ever active people, - but it is not possible to specify the innumerable subjeets of these paintings, and still less to describe them. Aside from the pleasure of eeing these splendid productions of modern art, there was the additional interest attached of many of the apartments thus passed through, which, as you are aware were formerly the habitations of several of the kings. The sleeping rooms of Louis XIV., preserved in its original condition, being the one in which he died 1715 and on the balcony of which that incident occurred so often quotod by orators : the chamborlain one moment announced to the assembled people " Le Roi est mort ' and broke his wand of office ; but at once takiug up another exclaiined " Vive le Roi." Adjoining this were two rooms occupied by Marie Antoinette- the same from which the unsuccessful attempt wa made to escape when the blood-thirsty sans culottes were madly raving throug] these splendid apartments. The room of Louis XVI. are in the corresponding part of the opposite wing of the palac and across the court. The long gallery of Louis XIV., as it is called, is one of the most gorgoous as well as extensivo-, and brm its windows a splendid survey of ,hc fountaius and gardens is had, lookng out upon the terraco west and down he long avenue for neariy it mile. But great as are the attractions of the 'alace itself, an intorost of a different and earcely less absorbing kind is in the tensie park and gardens, erabracing not loss than a mile square, of the most varieil and delightful grounds, and ornaraented with tho most magnifieent fountains within a similar compass in tho world. To givo you any adequate idea of the beantiful things here concentrated for the gratifioation of tho various noble possessors, and of their satélites and mütresses, is quito irapossible. Standing anywhere in these grounds we have in constant view of from one to a half dozen of tho fountains with their immense basins, classioal and ingenious groups of statnary, winding paths, grand avenues, wild forest flowers ornamental shrubbery, terraoes of splendid masonry, orangerios, lakes, islands, the notorious as well as celebrated villas of the grand and little Trianon, and all tho appendages to luxuries upon a scale so regardloss of expendituro and so successfully directed to personal gratification. Yet all these for two centuries were kept up sololy for the enjoyment of the noble few, and it is in comparatively recent times only that the public have been allowod to share in the pleasui-e for which they pay. To confine the attention simply to therenowned fountains and visit them all will occupy hours, but owing to their vast extent and the expense attonding it they are all exhibitëd in f uil play only upon a few occasions during each season. It was upon one of these that we were present. Until we saw the ncver to be forgotten spectacle, it seeraed incredible that the coat upon each occasion should be computed at 10,000 francs. These are no streot corner fountains, triokling from basin to basin or sending out their littlo jets for a few feet, but aro not loss oomplicated and vast than they are numerous. Somo of them are Hke smull lakes, and the water is made to assumo every conceivable form and asoends in niany of them from 50 to 100 feet high. One for instance is intended to embody tho myth of Latona punishing certain shepherds who refused her a draught of water, by transforming them into frogs and tortoises. Around tho edges of the several eoneentric basius are soatcd aud standing a great uumber of these animáis, and one is encircled by the unfortunate peasants more or les metauiorphosed into the same form, whilo above all and forming the central group in white marble is Latona with Arjollo and Diana. When playing, each of theso hundreds of figures send forth a graceful jet, the whole interlacing in the greatest complication and oompletely enveloping Latona in a éloud of spray and water, in which the rainbow is visible. In the same space are two other fountains, throwing up thoir large columns of water 40 feet high. Splendid as many of these were they all seemed quite insignificant in comparison with those of the Dragon and of Neptune, which are noar each othor, tö reach which from the palace we doscended between two long rows uf smaller fountains playing at intervals of about 50 feet from elevated pedestals. The basin of Neptune covers apparently about four acres, upon one side of which is a terrace with vases and ornamental sculpture ; the other portion is encircled by a gently sloping lawn, and the whole bordered by a beautiful forest grove. At the appointed hour suddenly sprung upward from as many unnoticed pipes in the wide basin and the various groups, at least 150 erpendicular columna of water to a leight of 75 feet and falling again in uneasing spray ; whilo frora every vase and igure, and other intermedíate points innumerable, smaller jets sent forth their contributions in all conceivable directions, and higher than all arose from the Dragon upon the adjoining terrace, a vast sinjlc column like a cataract. A sight more eautiful and magnificent we never ex)ect to se, nor eau we imagine anything more splendid of the kind. Theie were not less than 10,000 persons surrounding the basin at the time, and the day was one of tho best, so you may know the occasion was thoroughly enjoyed. Of course we wished to get someknowedge of those mysterious bits of artificial laradise called the Grand and the Petit Crianons. The former is about 3-4 of a iuile from the palace, oompletely out of view, and reached by long winding avenues through the wood. It is a low, one Btory edifica of brick, covering a spacious ;round plan and forming in exterior appearance simply a neat and handsome villa, but containing many apartments fitted up with that luxurious taste which prompted its oreotion by Louis XIV., for the somewhat celebrated Madame de Maintenon, who was not his legitímate queen. lt is enclosod so as to be shut off from the park and has its separate and more private groundsforthe uso and gratification of the temporary inmates of the villa. Tho little Trianon is of loss size upon the ground, but is two stories in height and resembles the mansion of some substantial but unpretending citizon. It is likewise enclosed together with an expansive área of forest which has its various nooks and corners of beautiful surprises in the way of adornment, and for tho sentimental gratification of its quandam occupant, Madame du Barry, who had the doubtful honor of being thefavorite of Louis XV. A small stream is made to meander through the wood, anc upon a small island artfully forraed by its aid an open temple of Love, with a statue Venus in its center, is erected; anc some distance further on we come to the little mili where Royalty and his mistres played millors'; then a lake with its min iature Swiss village - including a cos; cottage of real rustic beauty ; a little church covered with ivy, a dairy-house with its marble shelves and smig oonvenienoos for the sweet delights of the King's beautiful dairy-maid, and just back of these several dwellings tor those who eonstitutod the villagers anddid service t'or tho mistress ot' tho house. Thnt it was all very charming, and froin present indications muoncfi have been r-xquisitely beautiful and 'picturesque, we ean attest ; and that tho silene.1 of this umbrageous spot has boen oft broken with ihe happy thoughtlessneas of guilty love(?) wo can well believe. But at a later day it beoame as well it might, a favorito resort for the more honored and most unfortunate Queen, Maria Antoinette, and the Duchess of Orlnans. The various foot-patha lead in overy direotion and the noble trees appear quite liko fi nativo forest, but the once romantic village and the buildings erected for the Royal pastime of playing farming, dairykeeping, &c, have a noglected and forsaken appearance, although still showing much of their first rustic beauty ; the pretty little mili is quite out of repair and its " noisy wlieel still." From all we saw we don't wonder that Versaillcx haa ítlwítys continued to be n favorito residentie for the Prenoh rulers, and rocalling the fact that in caso of nucessity thoy had the equally capacious palaoes and beautisurroundings at St. Cloud, Fontainobeau, St. Gerraain, the Luxemburg and Tuillerios, to resort to, it wonkl seein they might have been comfortable. Ever vours.

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Subjects
Old News
Michigan Argus