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Foreign Correpondence

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Frankfort, July 16, 1873. Friexd Poxu : Dresdon is a city of much loss sizo but in our estimation of much more beauty titan Berlin. There was not so much appearance of animated business, of immense public odiflcos and warehouses or of great profusión of sculpture and bronze to meet the eye ; but thero was instead a much moro uniform neatness and symmetry in tho street architecture and prevailing public taste especially was there a great accessibility to shady parks and gardens, and there seetned a real fitness and propriety in finding here instead of at B. tho finest gallery of pictures. The Elbe makes a great bend in its progress through the city, and itswidthisspanned by three bridges of' great length and solidity: that upon which we more frequently crossed is 400 yards long ancl has 16 arches, and for warrnth and sunshine in mid summer can vie with any we have seeu. The city is quite a resort for young ladies and . lL .- „, -. l_in A i ' l i mi + h-v V" "i cl tl ii 4 1 4' 1 "iTl fl I TM1 T" others iroin America ior eaucauonai pur■suits ; but to strangers its leading attraction is its galleries which are nearly all conoentrated within the huge curious looking building called tho Zwinger, construoted around a 'large quadrangle, in what is called the Eocco style, possessiDg very little architectural beauty though adorned with some good soulptures. The Attica above the inner facade of the main portal contains statues, over life size, of Girotto, Holbien, Durer, Goethe, Danto and Cornelius, and in side niches stand those of Eaphael and Michael Anglo. As the aeveral colloctions are open to the public upon assigned days and between certain hours it requires some care to keep properly posted and avoid disappointment. The picture gallery very naturally tracted our first attention. It contains about 2,500 paintings, and of these, the ' proportion of those which are good is inoro than usual. The general división into called the Itallian, Spanish, Dutch and Germán schools, riiakes it convenient to inspeot. Of all the beautiful piotures there the most celebrated is the Sixtine Madonna of Raphael, and familiar as its general appearance was made to us through fine eugravings. it was not without profound and almosfc fearful interest that we entered the room which is assigned for the special exhibition of this great masterpiece. We were not disappointed we found it all that we had anticipated and more. It is a production of wonderful beauty, and withal seems so very life-like that we see the persons represented almost as if real. By some this workofthe artist is preferred to nis Transfiguration. But the two pictures aro of an essentially different character. This, presents a scène of tr.anscendant beauty, with which the sentiment expressed by the artist's pencil harmonizes perfectly; the other conveys a grander thought and the artist has expressed it in a marmer most impressively and nobly fltted to the subject. Both are deservedly placed at the very highest estímate, as works of unaurpassable merit, and no one hesitates to concur in the world's verdict that Eaphael is the true Sovereign of all that is best in this department of Art. There is always to be fonnd in this room a large number of persons whose quiet and absorbing interest in the great picture constitutes a most impressive evidence of its inexpressible power. The canvass does not appear to be over ten feet in width by about twelve feet high, and was acquired for this collection in 1753 for L9,000 and at the present time no sum could be named as its proper value. At the futther extremity of the intervening suite of cabinets, in a corresponding room, is another rnasterpiece of Art of an earlier era - the " Virgin and Child" of Holbein, the younger. It possesses a beauty all the more surprising because of its freedom from the stiffness and precisión of outline which aro common to that period of Art. The Virgin is represen ted as standing in n recessed niche, holding the Child in her arms, while at her feet kneel the Burgoinaster of Basle and his family grouped upon the right and left. The execution of the work seems to be the very perfection of skill, and the graceful postures and drapery as woll as the admirable beauty of the Madonna are strikingly fine. The artist has introduced in the rioh carpet upon which the figures are placed, a fold, as if it had not been drawn smoothly down, which'gives a most charming ease and naturalness to the picture. It is in one of the Halls of this gallery that wefound the celebratod " La Notte" of Correggio, having for its subject " The Adoration of the Shepherd," and in the same room is another of his works called " The Day," reprosenting the Virgin seated upon a pedestal as it were, with saints standing near, a picture not so pleasing or impressive as the former though exhibiting the inimitable skill of the artist. In one of the smaller cabinets wo find that ever admired Magdalene of his, whose grace and beauty httve made it a favorite subject for the engraver and copyist the world over. We feel impelled to mentioii as worthy pf noarly or quite equal praise the " Beading Magdalene " of Battoni, differing and yet similar to that of Correggio and, boautiful as tb o most skillf ui band could f orín or art adniirer could desire. But the attempt would bc endloss to speak of eacb of the works which gave us so much satisfaotion, Titian's "Tribute money " and " Vej;us," Carravaggio's " Card Players " the land scapes of Claude Lorraine,Wouvorman and Ruisdale, Dow's " Praying Hermit " Gerard's Napoleon in his Corronation Robes, i and hundreds of others. All tho best artista were to be met with in all the various schools, and were represented by several of their productions. It seemed sornewhat singular that the Sixtine Madonna was tho only original work of Raphael in a gallery so extensivo and select, though several copies are in its possession. Much pleasure is derived from a visit to the collection of engravings and drawings which is both extensivo and well arranged in cases and portfolios, in the samo building also is a vory good collection of casts of the best ancient sculptures, and among which we recognized many acquaintances formed with origináis elsewhere. The Historical Museum we found to be unusually interesting, both from its great extent and the superior order of the arrangement. A mere Hst of the various rooms will afford sotue insight into the character of this valuable collection. The Entrance Hall, Koom of the Ghase - contamina; ery thing pertaining to this branch of royal pastiine, cross-bows, spears, lashes, dog oollars, hunting horns, &c; Tournament Hall, with rich and gay caparisons and armour shields helmets, and equestrian representatioi of the encouuter, &c. ; Battle Saloon - a long hall (at least 150 feet), the walls of which were completely covered with every variety of weapons used in ancient and more modern times, and upon the floor were arranged in a continuous row about 20 equestrian figures arrayed in the identical armour of the individual represented, ainong which and in cabinets between the horsemen ware the armour of the Elector Maurice, the bloody scarf he wore, and the bullet with which he was killed in 1533, the armour of Gustavus Adolphus, coat of mail of Sobeiski worn at the siege of "Vienna 1683, and similar memorials. The Pistol Room, exhibiting the most varied ment of fire arms from the timé of their first invention down and among them the pistols of 8everal important historical personages as Charles XII., Louis XIV., and others; Saddle and Costume Chamber, containing some of the most gorgeous court dresses, mitres, harness, and trappings flashiug wih gems of immense value ; Turkish Tent Room, in whioh was raised the splendid crimson tent of Kara Mustapha, captured at the siege of Vienna, and beneath which is a very rich assortment of Turkish weapons. The Indian Cabinet had a fine display of curious objeots from the East and also from Brazii, and the Parade Room contained a great variety of rich robes of various limes and places as also many idteresting objects of personal apparel- as tne hat and sword of Peter the Great, sword of Charles XII., of Sweden, the crimson saddle of Napoleon and the boots he wore at the battle of Dresden and the velvet shoos worn by him at his oorronation and of even greater interest, a niask of his ] face taken after his death. The latter did not of course give the round, full face , we associate with the Emperor, but it showed a face of remarkably fine symetry, good f orehead and a nose not so large as we had Bupposed. We never visit such a collection without a wish that in our own country there was at least one good museum of ancient and medieval armor and weapons. We will now proueed to the Japanese palace on the other side of the Elbe, erected in 1717 and getting its appellation f rom no resem blance which it bears to any edifice of that Eastern people but merely from a few modern figures introduced about its porportal. This building, as well as most of the publio structures, is roofed with copper and the oxydation caused by long exposure has given all these roofs the color of a bright green. The collections of Antiquities and of Porcelain and the Library of 300,000 volumes is contained in this palace. We continued our walk up the river along the well shaded highway, passing the mammoth brewery of Waldschlosschen, then the Albrechtaburg with its two fine chateaux belonging to Prince Albiecht, and finally descending from the lofty hill side. to Loschwitz, a neat little yillage three miles from the city and a place of frequent resort. It was at this place that Schiller wrote his Don Carlos, in memory of which a neat marble statue and tablet has been erected near the pleasant little Summer house in which he spent much of his time. Taking the steamer which plies upon the river as far aa Teschen we had a splendid panarama of the whole hill side with its vinyards, villas and chateaux as we passed down the nver to .Uresden again. Another very pleasant walk ia through the village of Racknitz and up the hill to the three oaks beneath which is the modest monument ereoted to Morean, who was mortally wounded on that spot, August 17, 1813. It is a simple cube of granite, placed npon a low base of rock work, and surmountod by a bronze heimet resting upon it sabre. The view from this point is very extensive and beautiful, and the road from the city well'shadedThese easily aocessible and pleasant environs make Dresden quite delightful to one fond of a ramble. Toward sunset the Bruhl terrace, which extends nearly 600 yards along the river and about 75 feet above the river level, is a charming spot, finely shaded and with a first-class restaurant at its upper extremity. It is reached from the old bridge by a broad flight of steps, at the top of which are marble groups of Night and T)av. Morniner and Eveninsr - the work of Schilling - of no striking artistic value but very well suited for this position. One of tlio sights of Dresdon nextin interest to the picture gallory is tne so-called liroen Vault, in the palace. We did dot visit it with any great expectations, as we had found these church treasuries and court jewels ratlicr more showy than artistic and valuable in anything but their money equivalent ; but we found that here was a collection of real intrin' sic merit as an illustration of tho history of Art and in the great variety and beauty of its individual objects. In the first room are small bronzes of rare value, among which were a crucifix by Gian da Bologna ; a small dog, by Peter Vi sober, not over six inches long, represented as it in the act of scratching itself and regarded as one of the most valuable specimens in the room and as a work of Art quite inimitable ; copies of antiques and of monuments, and a great variety of petite figures from the hands of Noted Artists. In the Ivory room were all conceivable forms of work in this material - beautiful carving toilette furniture, fans, baskets, vases with reliëfs, statuettos a crucifix attributed to Michael Angelo, and two horse's heads by the same artists, all the numberless specimens being romarkable for the delicacy of the work or its curious construction. From a single piece of Ivory 16 inches high is cavved a group of 22 figures of great beauty, interlaced together. In the room of Mosaics is an extensive collection of delicate tracery, in relief, upon the eggs of the üstrich and upon sea shells, work in coráis, amber, ifcc, and pictures on porcelaine and enamel. In other rooms are vessels in gold, silver and plate for reliquaries, aabinets, &c, others of Agate, chalcedony, chrys.tal, topaz and other precious stones; carvings in ebony. Some of these are wrought with such equisite skill, from materials so delicate and fragüe that we are filled with wonder at the accomplishment. In the last room was a still more dazzling array of rich jewels and articles of rare value. One work from the colebratod Dinglinger, 1728 represents the Throno and court of the Great Mogul as witnessed by the artiats, and consista of 132 perfect figures of little men of about an inch iu height, oonstructed entirely of gold and enamel. The largest Onyx in the world is here and in a sepajate cabinet the crown jewels consisting of the various orders, svvord, cane, buckles, buttons, &c, for the King, and coronet, necklaoe, earrings, fingerrings, baacelets, &c, for tbe queen, there being several sets of for each, all sot with diamonds and rare jewels and becoming the condition of the royal wearers. The historical value of this extensive collection was much enhanced by the arrangement of a large portion of the contents in the respective centuries of their production. Eight large rooms were filled with this unique collection, and the aggregate money value must have been enormous. Before leaving this part of the country we desire to take a trip through Sexon, Switzerland, lying up the Elbe and extending into Bohemia, and of the most delightful and interesting of regions for an excursión of three or four days that we have found in all our wanderings, but of this in another letter. Ever yours, J. M, WHEELER.


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