Foreign Correspondence

Frankfort, July 16, 1873. Friend Pond : The situation of Ptague is very fine uponboth sidos of the Moldau, which here expands into a very broad stream bordered upon one side by lofty banks over which the western part of the city extends. Having about 180,000 inhabitants of Bohemian, Germán, and Jewish origin, it is also interesting from its historical associations. But it ean scarcely be callèd a clean or beautiful city. There are rnauy fine old mediseval structures in the place, and we spent most of our time in visiting theni and in an excursión out to White Mountain. The Teyukirche is the old Hussite church dating from the lóth century, possessing but little exterior beauty, but containing many ancient tombstonus representing old knights in their coats of mail. Near the extremity of the nave a slab of reddish marble bears one of these singular reliëfs which is intend'id to represent the great Danish Astronomer, Tycho Brache, "armed and equipped,'1 who died at Prague, 1603, holding at the time a chair in the University. The Rathhand isinainly, asit now stands, of modern construction, but the tower and chapel and south side of the ancient structnre, are of a fine Gothic 3tyle, with a curious old clock lóV down in the face of the tower, which upon its 3everal dial plates shows the time, the signa of the Zodiac, and otber celestial phenomena. Statuary of several of the early kings and eruperors adorn the facade. The adjoining square was the scène of the barbarous execution by Maxiniilian, the victor, of 27 of the Protestant leaders who in the great struggle between the religions on White Mountain, became hÍ8 prisoners, and in the same place twelve years later (1633) Wallenstein caused eleven of his high officers to be executed for alleged cowardice at the battle of Lutzen. üne of the earliest existing structures, and one which looks deflantly in the face of many centuries to come, is the Carlsbrucke, which is still the central and most used of the bridges connecting the two portions of the city. It was built in the lóth century, is 520 yards in longth with 30 groups of saints and statues of interest along its balustrade. It was from near the uiiddle of the bridge that St. John Nepornuc, the patrón saint of Bohemia, was precipitated in 1338 by order of the Emperor Wenzel, and abovo the spot a fine bronze statue of the Saint is erected, and a tablet, protected by an iron frame, marks the traditional poiut where the faithful confessor met his fate. The tower at the eastern end of the bridge is still quite perfect, dating from 1451, adorned with the armorial bearings of the various towns of Bohemia, statues of Charles IV and of his son Wenzel or Wenceslaus IV., and with galleries jast above the arched passage way in which for ten years it is said the heads of the Protestant nobles were kept exposed after their execution. A tablet recites that the large crucifix in bronzo on the bridge was erected with money exacted from a Jew who had been convicted of reviling the cross. The University claims to be the oldest Germán University, founded in 1348, and containing, as we are informed, about 3,000 students at the present time. There being no objects of especial interest betond the portraits of Austrian Emperor &c, we'did not apply for admission. A very fine statue in bronze of Charles IV., its founder stands in a rather unfavorable loeation near the Carlsbrucke. We found our way into one of the courts of the Jesuit college, near the bridge, to see the statue there erected to comuiemorate the patriotism of the students in defense of the city against the Swedes in 1648. It stands quite in the tnidst of a small enclosure of shrubbery and nearly hidden from view. The figure represents a youth in the student's garb of the 17th century : short breeches, top boots, a flowing coat, chapeau and sword much like some young cavalier with little of the student except a book held beneath one arm. The finest monument we sawat Prague was about half way between the bridge just referred to and the suspension bridge above. A very delightful, well-sbaded walk extends along the terrace which connects the two bridges, called the Pranzensquai, and passes the very beautiful and well designed Gothic canopy, 77 feet high, within which is the equestrian statue of Francis I., in bronze ; about the lower corners are figures emblamatic ot the 16 districts whieh formerly composed Bohemia. Above these Art, Commerce, Science and Industry are represented. The whole forming a Une and tasteful monument. One of the most singular placas we visited was the old Jewish Synagogue and Cemetery. Pmgue has alwaysbeen a favorite resort for this peculiar people, about 10,000 of whom are now resident there. Of their nine 6ynagogues the oldest has its traditionarorigin with the fugitives who escaped froin Jerusaletn at the time of its destruction, andthatit became subsequeutly lost from knowledge end ineinory, was covered with the accumulated debris of centuries until accidentally discovered nbout the beginning of the 13th century, when the remaining gubstructure was cleared of its rubbish and the" present structure, ín the early Gothic style, erected upon it. However true this may be we had to descend into the ancient level of the church several feet, and but for the statement of our guide we should never hav guessed that we were inside a church. Such was the gingular arrangement of the apparatus lor illumiuation, and iuch the uttar ness of evorything above and below that it more resembled a machine shop if not a smithy. Every thing was begrimed with 8moke and cobwebs, as if it had liever been cleaned for the past 500 years, and yet it Las been in constant use we werp told. As the usages of this peoplo requires the wcmen to be separated froin the men during service, we found on inquiry that the apartment set apart for them was only connected with the one we were in by narrow slits through the intervening wall, like the port-holes for musketry in a fortress, a very effectual barrier against any attack from tho eyesof the dark eyed Jewescesin Bohemia, " who walk in beauty like the night." A parchment roll of the Book of Moses of the tenth century, well worn, and some of the apparel of the priests were all harmonious with the place. During the siege of the city by the Swedes, in 1548, the Jews exhibited their bravery to such a degree thafc Ferdinand presented them with a large flag suitably iuscribed in Hebrew characters. This flag is extended at full length across the singular building, about inidway, and like everything else shows but little of its original hues. The sexton told us that this was the only synagogue of a Gothic form in Europe. An object of scarcely leas singular interest was the old cemetery of the Jewish quarter. Only space for a solitary way seemed to allow the visitors a chance to iuspect the grounds, which but for the regularity of the shape and the Hebraic inscriptions on the head-stones might have been mistaken for some ancient stone quarry, overgrown with tangled masaos of shrubbery. This burial ground lies centrally within the Jewish quarter and is of limited extent, and though disused since 1780 had been the sole ccinetery of this people formanycenturiesand üad been occupied over and over again till the memorial stones stood so thickly it was quite impossible to identify them with any particular grave. Upon many of them the emblema of the tribe to which the deceased belonged was traced in relief : as the Pitcher for the descendants of Levi ; the two hands for those of Aaron ; birds, animáis, &c, for others According to a Jewish practico many of the tombs had upon them quantities of small stones, one of which each friend of the deceased who may pass by is expected to deposit as a personal tribute of regard. We found the Cathedral or what there was of it, to be full of interest, ünly the choir end is completed, and being of the órnate and beautiful Gothic style of the Cathedral at Cologne is remarkably fine. The work was thus finished in 1344, and during the short interval that has since elapsed but little has been done, apparently, except to accumulate a vast amountof material. The columns to support the aisles are standing isolated and in lonely beauty, extending in front of the choir. Having succeedeá in shaking off the peristent guides who manage the Cathedral as if a kind of private exhibition of their own, we managed to get admission with another party and under an almost equally obnoxious routine were much too hurriedly niarshalled about from one object to another by the sacristán, who had seen them all before and lacked the keen curiosity of a first visit. The most singular of the chapéis is that of St. Wenzel, containing his monument and his real heimet and coat of mail, A large candelabrum, so fashioned as to constitute a statue of the gaint, nearly life size is the work of that celebrated worker in bronze, Peter Vischer. The walls of the chapel are lined with Bohemian precious stones, cut and polished and sitnply inmured in cement, without any formal design or even adjustment of their adjoining sides, presenting a very curious ornamentation. The frescoes were too much faded to be pleasing. A head of Christ on the napkin, copied in 1368, was well executed. In the choir is the elabórate shrine of St. Nepomuc containing, it is alleged a ton and a half of silver, with the figure of the Saint and Virgin and angels of large size, but all of so little merit artistically as to repel ouriosity. In anothchapel is a candelabrum, the lower portion of wbich is alleged to have once been m Solomon's temple. It is of bronze and apparently of Byzantine workmanship. The wood oarvings and pictures and pulpits and many other things occupy the various chapéis, and are generally of inoro than usual merit. The Cathedral is quite surrounded by the Imperial palace or Burg, and its dependencies, but these we did not visit. In one of the courts is a fountain group, in representation of St. George and the Dragan erected iu 1373, the horse ha ving been recast about 20Q years later. The ascent to the plateau of the Hradschiner platz, from the bridge is quite laborious in a hot day, a part of the way being up a flight of over 200 stone steps. The palace of Count Czernin, occupied at present as barracks, stands on a niueh more conspicuous site and externally presents a more commanding facade than the royal palace. Just in front of the former is the Capuchin Monastery and adjoining this is the pilgrimage chapel of St. Loretto, built after the model of the celebrated Casa Santa at Loretto, but having no great beauty, the reliëfs being very rude as well as the ornamentation generally. Passing out of the Beichsthor west about a niile, we saw the old battlefield of the White Mountain, asitiscalled where Protestantistnwas forced to yield to the heavier battalions of Eomati Catholicism. The place is quite a resort, as a fine park covers n portion of the ground. The vicinity of Prague has been the scène of repeated conflicts. The great Hussite battle of 1420, of White Mountain in 1620, and in 1744, and 1757 in the opgrations of Frederick the Great, beaides the siege of the Swedes in 1648. There seems, therefore to be a good foundation for that musical battle piece, the "Battle of Prague," whioh ia pounded out of so many pianos. The city is the principal wene of the labor of Huw and of his cotemporary, Jeronie, both of whom üually auffered martyrdoin. Any inclination we may have had to extend our trip to Vienna suocumbed to the influence of the insufferably hot weather whioh had set in, and with no especial love for this capital of Bohemia we once more turned our faces northward, by rail direct for Rathen, where we took the steamer again for Dresden. During our stay in-Prague we had an opportunity of witne8sing a procession of the guild of the gold beaters, with banners and music, followed by hundreds of all classes. When passing a shrine or wayside Madonna they always made a respectful halt. But we were most suiprised to see several carriages in the proeession, fillod with fair young ladies in their gayest attire, without bonnet or any otber protection upon their heads and ridiug in the boiling sunshine, without oveu the screen of a parasol or fan. There waa much lesa display of Boheuiian warea than we had anticipated, though but for its fragüe nature we should have been tempted to export some of the beautiful glass-ware. At Dresden we soon got our baggage together and took tickets for Frankfort, good for five days, via. Leipsic, Weimar, Eisenach. &c, getting started in time to reach the former place about 5 r. M. The country froin Dresden to Leipsic is quite attractive with its extensive fields ot' ripening grain, wheat, oats and barley, and, the most luxunautly dark grten potato crops just in f uil blossom, re-calling the ante -potato-bug times of Michigan. Upon the right, vineyards generally occupiid the low hill-sides and the nieadows indicated that haying time was passed, while the cherry trees held out an invitatiou to come and eat, which we were wholly unable to accept. Leipsic ia a city of uearly 100,000 inhabitantsand an old University and some local attractions. Bul imless oue's visit occurs at the time of some of the three great fairs there ia not much to demand time or attention. As the great center of the Germán book trade, it occupies a high rank in this particular field and this specialty constitutes its great characteristic. There appears to be ampie provisión, especialiy in tho vicinity of the Rosenthal park for the popular entertainment of beer gardens and music in the open air. The promenades which have taken the place of the old ramparts form a very delightful feature in the pleasant appearance of the city, as they complete a circuit quite within the central portions and are thusbrought within the readiest possible access to all. There are some very good modern pictures in the gallery. Of the older pictures a Madonna by Murillo and one by Del Sarto were good specimens of these masters. In the gallery we were agreably surxrised by meeting with Mr. Olds, of the class of 69 or 70, looking quite as if Germán life was not injurious. He informed us of the welfare of Prof. Jones and family, but our brief stay did not allow us time to cali t his rooms some what out of the city. The collection of engravings is quite a good one, but less extensive far than some we had seen. The finest pictures of tho gallery are f our large landscapes by Calame, the subjects of whiuh were " Monte Rosa, Ruins of Poestum, the Squall, and Swiss Mouutains." Like most other places Leipsic has also had its great battles. That occurring here in October 1813 between Napoleon's forces, 150,000 strong, and those ot' the Allies numbering 300,000. lasted for four days and is one of of the most desperate contticts ever fought, resulting in the retreat of the French, with terriHe loss on both Bides. The scène of the battle lies east and southeast of the city almost an unbrokan plain. But, it is time to close. Ever yours,