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Jottings In Scotland

Jottings In Scotland image
Parent Issue
Day
19
Month
November
Year
1875
Copyright
Public Domain
OCR Text

i íorrespondonoe of the Arjius. COPKNHAGEN, Oct. 12, 1875. Though writing tbis eveuiug at this far away capital of I)enmark, about which tbere is inuch to say, yet the order of ntvrration requires that 1 should resume the story where a formar letter Left it. We arrivud at Greenock nfter it was quite durk, and the several conneoted villages which skirted the Clyde upon either side preaented quite a brilHuiit appearauce, with their loug extended gas lights gleatuiog for miles along the hill Hides. The Clyde being but a shallow streain requires constant dredging and the aid of tides also to enable large steamers like the Bolivia to ascend to Glasgow, and then only by the aid of tugs. The whole distance froin Greenock, upon both sides of the rivor tor inany miles, seems to be but one cjiitinuous carpentry for sliip building ; and it was froui the peaceful banks of a friendly nation (I') that those terrible 8oourges of the seas proceeded to devástate our shipping during our civil war. About two miles short of Glasgow we became irretrievably stranded and were then compelled, in the early morniug, shrouded in a Scotch mist, to take our selves to a lighter with bag and baggage and thus reach the city. On landing we found the officials of the customs at that port much the most exacting and unnecessarily troublesome of any we have ever chanced to meet, but we had neither tobáceo nor new books, nor plated ware, and so were finally allowed to take a cab and proceed at once to the Queen Street station, where tickets to Edinburg were quickly taken for the tastest train of the day. In Glasgow itself there was little except the cathedral to interest the stranger, and as we hope to return next sumnier to visit the trossachs and the lakes we prefer to hasten on. Leaving Glasgow at 10 A. M., with the mist fortunately cleared away, we had a good view of the country as we hastily sped along. Upon our left the valley of the river.with the ascendáis - - - - f - - ■ ■ - - - r r b_ mountain slopes of the ïrossachs as a near background, presented a very agreeable pioture of woodlaud and pasture, of farm land and heather, but we were much surprised to find the hedges of hawthoru so ragged and unoomely. We have sean theui far better elsewhere. As we neaied Ediuburg the highlands at the north were neariy lost in the distance, but the general appearance of the country iiuproved. AU along the route there appeared to be a large portiou of the oats erop still standing in the sheaf, and under similar ciroumstances in America would be ruined. Our train took us to a station quite beueath the shadow of the celebrated castle and in the very center of the city. Wishiag for couvenience to have our Iruukssenton to Leith, the port for Ediuburg, they haviug boen marked for that station, but in (ireat Britain no checks are given for baggage, and it is quite neeessary whenever the passouger changes his train to attend personally to the transfer of his baggage or run a risk of losing a train by its detention. Just at the last moment fortunately the trunks came slowly forward and the lessonueed not be repeated. Our American systein of metal cheoks seems to be tne veiy üest vot Uo-tíbgtí i'u. tiio vntmjof travelers as well as for facility of identifioation. ïhe work, for work it is as well as pleasure, of doing the city was begun at once, aad in an hour after our arrival we stepped off the Street car near the splendid national moment to Sir Walter Scott, one of the most elabórate, showy, and yet tasteful specimens of monumental art that we have ever seen. A complete description would fill a small volume, and to be concfiived should be seen. It is in its general style a oomplete yet orderly structure, composed of successive stories of open arches and pinnacles, gradually dimiuishiug to its topmost pinnacle 200 feet high, and formiug a (iothie spire, into which all the characteristic features of Melrose Abbey are wrought in niches, and otherwise appropriately located throughout the entile exterior, re placed well couceived statues representing all the prominent eharacters of the novéis. Beueath the inain arches, in plaiu view from the jtreet level, is afine sitting statue of the once " Great Unkuown " with his favorite dog Maida at his side, the work of Stelle. The castle being open we were soon ascending the fortress height aud over the diawbridge inside the citadel. Pollowing the winding way we stood in a few minutes upon the very suniinit of the rock where the chapel of St. Margaret and the high boinb battery is sitúate, and surely a more magniücent prospect is seldoin if ever spread bef ore the eye of sight-seeing tiaveler, and none eiubraoing at one encircling glance a more varied picturesque, historical and literary interest. But to matters of special interest a v,ord must be given. me cnapei is saia to be the oldest buliding in Edinburg, dating from the time of David I. A. D. 1100, and is only about 16 1-2 by 10 1-2 feet in size. Outside stands old " Mons Meg," a monster cannon some twelve feet long into whioh a small boy niight easily be thrust. It is 400 years old and quite useless, being no longer able to speak " fot the love of the bonnets of bonny Dundee." We were admitted into Queen Mary's apartments, in one of which James VI. was born, 1566. There was nothing, either in spaciousness or or decoration, very grand in these rooms, but as connected with the romantic history of the much abused and much praisud Queen they cannot be seen without interest. The regalia of Scotland are also kept in the oastle and are intrinsically valuable, consisting of a crown, scepter, sword, treasurer's rod, badges of the order of the Garter, and of the thistle, etc, but as regalia their day is passed and they are now very properly kept in an iron cage. The long concealmeut and final discovery of these royal ensignia in 1818 form an interest - ing chapter in Lockhart's life of Scott. The castle itself consista of a mass of buildings and is courts, and occupied by the troop constantly stationed there. Fortunately as we left the castle the Highland regiment in thuir bare knees and picturesque uniform were drilling upon the parade grouud, and a piper with his anomalous musio bravely led the van. No moro beautiful military speotacle can be conceived than these 'ained Highlauders preseut, and every;hint; was so clean and neat as well as showy that it must contribute much to a truíy national pride. Leaving the castle we begau the de8cent along that famous old passage known as High Street, and farther down as the Canongate. Noted events and noted nauies are associated with the entire street and its numberless wynds and closes. Here was the Lawn uiarket and the Grass niarket of olden time- beM where we stand was the old Tolbooth o.r prison, botter known as the Heart of Midlothian, on whose side were exposed the heads of meu known in the history of troublous times- here is the old churoh of St. (Jiles, in ita re storation diess and steeple lesembling an imperial crown, where John Knox no boldly spoke bis sentiments in oppo sition to the so-called popish idolatry and so sharply criticised royal conduot By the way, ia the pavement of thp open square just back of the church.is a atone about a toot square inscribec I K 1572, niarking in an alraost uunotioeable way the last resting place of the great reformar. We had 110 time to inspect the interior óf the cburch, or 01 the Parliament House, or of the Advocate or Signet librarles, a!l higbly interesting. We looked into the various narrow passages, almost expecting to see Boswell, or Ranisey, or Scott, or Christopher North face to face. The old house of Knox still remains, projecting about three feot into the street with the goldeu command in old Knglish iuscribed on its side. The singularly projecting clock indicated the Canongute Tolbooth of 1591, built for confinement of debtors and haviug for its motto sic it'ir ad nutra, now also adopted by one of the classes in our owu University. We stopped at the church of the Canoiigate long enough to look at the grave of the young poet Ferguson.and at the plain marblehead stone erected to his momory by his more famous brother poot, Burns, with its lines of warm poetio eulogy inscribed. Arriving at the foot of this street we found ourselves in front of Holyrood palace and Abbey, but too late to obtain admÍ88Íon, and must reserve a not,if!R of this hio-hlv int.i'rftRtinp' Rtrnr.tiirfl and its associations tor another letter. Our wanderings there took us in the direotion of Colton hill, a newer portion of the city, upon whose highest summit conspicuously visible, like the castle itself, from nearly erery point of the compasa, stand several public monuments - the very tall and not handsoine pillar to Lord Nelson, with a Binall crypt-like edifice for its base - the "lantern of Domosthenes," erected to the meraory of Dugald Stewart, a eenotaph to Prof. Playfair, and inore imposiug as well aa soniewhat singular the incomplete yet striking monumental struoture raised by public subscription to the memory of the fallen braves of the Peninsular and Waterloo campaigns. This structure aa it stands consista of twolve HutedJCorinthiaa columns, aupporting a massive frieze and entablature, in all fully 75 feet in height, and thus standing upon a site so elevatod recrtlls the Parthenon at Athens after which it wás dosigned. It does not however in itself suggest its memorial purpose. But 'tis time to close. Yonrs ever,

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Subjects
Old News
Michigan Argus