Kerrytown Bistro Practically Perfect
Kerrytown Bistro practically perfect
Excellent staff serves wonderful food at local institution
BY ANA M. WAGNER
Ann Arbor’s Kerrytown has long been a popular draw for locals and out-of-towners. But many visitors to this historic district have one destination in mind: Kerrytown Bistro.
Soft red brick and wooden accents help camouflage the bistro from neighboring establishments, but its exquisite cuisine and attentive service set it far apart. From the moment you enter, the restaurant’s staff takes care of you, ensuring that you are comfortably seated, that your beverage glasses are never dry, and that you want for nothing... but in such a professional and courteous manner that you’re never stifled or overwhelmed. It’s feel-good service, the sign of a trained waitstaff.
The signs of an expert chef are in evidence even before opening the menu, for the aromas wafting over from eyecatching entrees at nearby tables will send your salivary glands into overdrive. Fortunately, the basket of tangy sourdough bread tides you over until the first of Chef James “Gun” Williams’ mouthwatering creations arrives.
Start your meal with an “amuse-gueule,” an appetizer designed to whet your tastebuds and prepare them for the culinary odyssey ahead. The Kerrytown Bistro offers a variety of different starters; seafood, soups and meat-free selections abound. Norwegian smoked salmon - a healthy menu option - arrives sprinkled with capers, diced Bermuda onion, and bits of bell pepper and accompanied by triangles of sourdough toast. While these enhancements make the salmon more enjoyable, the sweet, thinly sliced fish stands perfectly well on its own. Another popular choice is the “Goose Mousse,” a delectable blend of goose-and duck-liver pate that spreads creamily on the accompanying toast points. A brioche-encased baked brie is also available, tut this turns out to be mostly bread with a scant amount of cheese. A better alternative is the bistro’s French onion soup, encrusted with mounds of melted Gruyere and with a vegetarian - albeit slightly salty - base.
Also listed is lighter fare: a selection of salads, each different from the other and all definitely delectable. The salade avec poire grillee is a must, a combination of grilled pear segments, Bermuda onion slices, crunchy pecans and crumbled blue cheese on a mesclun mix, topped with a sensational maple vinaigrette. Giving it close competition is the spinach and orange salad, a delightfully fresh mixture of crisp spinach leaves, juicy orange sections, and toasted almonds, served with an orange cinnamon honey dressing. Most of the salads tend to be sizable; you may want to share one in order to save room for your main course.
You’ll be glad you did, for not only are these principal plates stunning to see, they’re generously portioned.
A prime example is the Moroccan rack of lamb, deliciously tender and seasoned with cilantro, garlic and mustard. A slightly spiced chermola sauce accompanies the lamb, which is served with roasted redskin potatoes, vegetables, and a rather tasty red cabbage.
Another hearty option is the beef tenderloin fillet, dressed with your choice of a flavorful balsamic cream sauce or a rich burgundy sauce. The accompanying garlic mashed potatoes were absolutely dreamy, and the beef itself was moist and tender, although cooked beyond what we’d requested. Cooked to perfection, however, was the New Year’s sea bass, two flaky fillets first gently sauteed, then lightly coated with breadcrumbs and baked. Served with a scrumptious blend of regular and wild rice and a luscious lemon-cream wine sauce, the sea bass is ideal for seafood lovers and calorie-conscious diners.
Those watching their weight might nonetheless succumb to the sweet treats offered at the end of the meal. The Kerrytown Bistro’s desserts may not be numerous, but their quality is uncontested. Their creme caramel is the first I’ve had that comes close to matching my long-guarded family recipe. On the flip side, the restaurant’s profiteroles - a scoop of vanilla ice cream cradled within a circle of pastry and topped with a sweet syrup - far exceeds the version my French aunt serves; the bistro even offers raspberry sauce and a sweet burgundy reduction in addition to the traditional chocolate.
RESTAURANT REVIEW
Kerrytown Bistro
415 N. Fifth Ave., Ann Arbor
(734) 994-6424
(734) 994-6499 fax
info@kerrytownbistro.com
www.kerrytownbistro.com
Hours: Tuesday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.and 5-9 p.m.; Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Closed Monday.
Liquor: Selection of fine domestic and imported beers, wines and liquors.
Plastic: Visa, Master Card, American Express, Discover, Diner's Club.
Prices: Moderate to expensive. Brunch ranges in price from approximately $6 to $13 per person. Lunch, including appetizer or soup, ranges in prices from approximately $8 to $22. Dinner, including appetizer, soup, or salad, ranges in price from approximately $22 to $49 per person.
Wheelchair access: Very good.The restrooms are equipped with handrails.
Smoking section: None inside. Smoking is permitted on the outdoor terrace.