Ladles' Fall And Winter Dresses

The earliest importatious of French dresses are made up of shoit dresses for day wear, with very kmg trained skirts for f uil dress; the medium demi;rain does not ippear in the firsl invoices. Very r!ch i'.abrics that givo tho jreatest appearance of warinth are ised, snob as the polka-dotted veivets, irocaded velvet with large dotached igures, and plush, with ckth for plainer costumes; the w.rinost coiors also appear in abundatioe, espaoially ia the accessories thatformtrimmings, thouo-h many beautiful eestumes are shown in wo tonos of the same color, espeeiallv vhen heliotrope or other ptírples aiv eraployod. The dull copper reds are very s'tylish asanillumination for blaek: ïeliotrope and laremder are also effeotvely used with btick. The satin emIoved for draperips is very soft, and is oalied Snrah patin, thóugh its histrous utfacé roijnire.-; close weaving that coneeals the twills that are thu special eature of Surah silks. The corsaggg of new dresse.s are made with as few eams as possible, and are therefore of he simplest sba]es. Tho short siile o raus of the back are iiied almost without exception, though sinne modiatea lili prel'er having two sido fornis in tha vay introdnced by W'orlh several fe&va ago. Skirta ol Frenoh dresses are fuller tlian they have been made at any time siuce short skirts wore revived, though they are not made in the classic shipes papular here that depend so entirely upon thoir fullnosa tliat drapery is dispensod with. On the contrarv, tho flrst importatious show a great deal of drapery very bouffantly arranged, with scarf saslies that pass arouud the ligare, and avo the fullness of paniers below the hij3. Indeed, sash effects are given in maiiy ways, not only with the gay fabrics of trimniings, but with whole breadths of the dress material that are draped quite straight, or else doubled at the lower eml without being cut apart, or perhaps tliey form one mammoth bow on the left side, and a pointed corner on theright. The front and side gores are clinging, and these are still made the objeetive points for trimming. For instance, shirring, whioh has now extended to heavy cloths, will cover the upper Half of the front and side gores, while Delow this will be square pointa of handkerchiefs, or receding scarfa opening over plcated llounces, or perhaps a series of scarfs of satin will be shirred at intervals across the front gore, and pass under brocaded iside broadths that are as flat as panels, but which faced with a contrasting color of satin, velvet, or plush, that makes itself visible without being too conspicuous. The Jersey jauket worn during the summer has given saggestions for some of the nevv features of oloth and catuel'shair costumès, aüti in some suits the Jersey webbing, like stooking net, is used for the aanging waist3 or polonaises of such dresses. For instanee, a navy blue eostume has a polonaise laced behind made of Jersey webbing, fltted by a middle seam in' front, and undcr-arm searns without darts. The collar and the sasli drapery are of blue pluah lined with light y ello w Surah, while the skirt ia blue cloth laid in kilt pleats. Another costume entirely of blaok has the Jersey polonaise of webbing, without darts, to which is taehed a kilt of blaok camel's-bah-; al sash of polka-dotted black satin forma the bouffant drapery, and coueeals the seam that joins the kilt to the polonaise. Less conpicuous than these dresses, which are meant only fot very young ladies and tnisses, is t'íie Jersey basque, which is faslened 11 front, but is based upon the Jersey idea of dispensiug with U3eless seams, and is thereforo made with the French báck that has no side bódies, while the fronts have but one dart, thouh there is of ten a narrow plastrón or a síender vest added, which eompels another seam, though concealing ft at the saine time, and this give3 the fullnessrerjuired for the bust, which is usually made by the second dart. This is handsomely illustrated in a black camel' s-haiF suit that has eopper red satin with black polka dots for tritnming. This gay satín forms a narrow vest not fourinches widdown the front of the black basque, also a shirred round collar so deêp as to narly cover the shoulders. A breadth of this satin is iiraped like a panier sash on the edge of the lont;, plain basque, which, with lts few seams, is made tö follow every i outline of the figure from the "throat down low on the hip. The sash is shirrod to the front of the basque, and U fastened on the lef t side under a cluster of loops of black satin ribbon that is coppcr rod on the wrong side; the sash is spread out wider across the backt and forms an immense bow, with : ends that hang almost to the edge of the skirt. This skirt has first a silk foundation, which is faced at the bottom with camel' s-hair, on which is a narrow pleiitiuLr of red satin, and also one of blaek; btmeatk this Ú a balayeuse of white muslin embroidored with red. Tlrs whole silk skirt is then concealed by one long kilt ploating of i black camel' s-hair sewed on a few i incoes below the belt, so that it will not be clumsy around the hips, as that would spoil the fit of the close Jersey basque; this kilting stops just below whero. the satín pleatiny; borders the foundation skirt of silk.' Quite different from these suits are other clotli dresses that are made gay by combining them with tartana or Madras plaids of satin Surah. The corsage is a habit basque of cloth eithor olive or seal brown, with shirrec plaid Surah passed around the necl a:id down each side of the front. The cloth skirt is thea shirred across the front, and lias most bouilaut draperies of the plaid Surah arranged in points like hanilherehiefs at the back, and hek by bowi of niany loops of green satin ribbon, with red on the reverse side. Vury haudsome dresses for the demiseason are shown of black Surah satin, trimmed ivilh many pleatins of the same, muoh jet enibromery oü lace, je' fringe, with facings and balayeuse ilouuce of heliotrope Surali. The mouohoir costutnes of meilium weighi of vvool are lor autumn wear, and are made in most bouftant scyles. For later in the season, cloth dresses are oombined with striped velvet or plush, and there are velvet costunies of uew and elegant designs. A pruno velvet suit is embroidered all over with polka dots of the same shade, and triwmed with shirred öurah satin scarfs that cross the front and extend down lho sides in panels. The boufiaut drapery of the back is formed by the Surah arranged in sash effects, and bordered with tho velvot. The waists of sneh suits are singlc-brcasted coata of the velvet, with deep shirred Surah collar, or else a broad Bvron collar of the velvet piped with Sumh, Large square pocicets on the sides. In other costumes the Surah satin forras tlie greatcoat, with Louis Quatorze vest of brocadod velvet, in whieh tho detached flowérs are as large as a lady's hand. Rioh passemunterie ornaments trim the paneled sides of suoh dresses, and a ï-ow of ciieuille fxinïe often edges the panel where it falls on tho border Jlounce. - Iar]ert Bazar. Framk Watkins, a twelve-year-old boy in Penn Yan, N. Y., eönghed up tlie other oay a brasa hook which he had swallowed. ten years ago. It has been supposed that the boy had consumption, but sinoe gétoling rid of the hook he seems mnch bettcr. Benjamin Fkankli.v, who had an almanac for saying wise things, once remarked: "It ís hard for nn empty bag to stand uprioht," "Why one s'hould ex peet or natu an empty bag to stand Op Benjamiu does not e.xplaiu; but the groat truth remains all the same. A 8HREWD rasoal advertises a macliinethat will "add np cohimns of Hgurew aïoot long'' iu six .seoouds. He senas a, piet-e oL chalk witli directions Lo use it en a bain door or other surfac euough to hold figures a foot long. . r ♦ Ui. 1 An old salt, when asked how far north he had ever been. replied that he had been so fiir nnrth thal "the eows v.iun milkoil beaide ;i red-ho stovo gave i(e oi'Oain."