Salt And Pepper

[n looking caref nlly over :i Frencli recipe and examining it in all is minute details, the following may be frequently fonnd, "Assaisonee i sel." Now, tliis may be literally translated, "Seasoned with big sult," and tliis is exactly what it does mean. It ïua.v seem to recall Sancho Panza's two uticles who were famous wine tasters, to mist tliat there is a diflerénce between alt and aalt, but guch a difEorence oes actually exist A capable French ooknever will useior theseasonlng f his (lislies the line, white salt which ve iind in our salt-cellars at the diner-table. He insista that it givea hia ilats a coarse, harah taste, which is lot pleasant. and that in addition to bis, it hardens the food.or, iL used tor egetables, it takes out the color in boiling green peas or string beans. More than that, there are many true gastroneraes who will insist outright that the iinedesiccated,chemically-pure sodic chloride, in use at table and employed dming tlie meal to increase the s:ltiness of the i'ood. will sdoü whai tiioy imc ctiiiiig-. In l-rancc tiim uit 11 is carried out by many persons, and special salt-cellars are put on the table tilleil with a coarse salt. In looking at tlus matter in a chemical way, there is no reason why the advocates of a eoavser salt inay not be in the right. The best salt for preserving llsh is doubteilly the Lisbon and Cadiz aalt. You may go almost any time to (loiicester, wheremore care is taken in preserving lish than in any part of the country, and you will generally see _a sliip unloading tliere with Cadiz salt. There canbe 110 desire toteach dilettanteism or fastidiousness in these columns, but whoever has not tasted ireslily-ground pepper, has no idea how admirable a condiment it is. ïhe "round pepper one buys at the best of grocers, though it may be uuaduHerated, has been probably in stock íor months. To eat pepper in perfection it should be ground a few mementa before using. There are to be found it old-fashioned houses in Europe, asmall pepper mili, something dating back from the 17th century, which antiquated machine is still in use. Instead of using the pepper caster the pepper is ground as it is wanted. For seasoning a disli, or for perfecting a salad, the delicate aroma which í'reshly-ground pepper gives, when tried, will convince the most animpaasioned diner of the írreat difference between a fresh and a stale condiment.-