Autumn Fashions

Popular New Styles and the Fabrics of Which They Are Made.

Mme. la Mode has been good to us this season in that she has given us such pretty and useful short jackets and coats to take the place of the long and heavy wraps and garments. Some of the later are simply superb in all that goes to make a garment rich and costly. There is no material too fine to be used as body or trimming. Velvet, the new heavy silks and the finest cloth are all put into these long wraps, and they are lined with satin, brocade and in some cases with fur. The outside is trimmed in so many different ways that it would be profitless to endeavor the mention of them all, but the applique of handsome lace medallions bordered with choice fur bands appears to be best liked. Some fine jet trimming is also applied and quite a quantity of elegant galloon made of fine silk braids and taffeta. This work is made of different widths and designs. The silk is cut out in shapes either before or after the application of the silk braid, and in some of the designs the interstices are filled in with black silk mull. Some of this beautiful applique work is sumptuous and shows up particularly well on velvet.

After all, though, nothing is so rich on velvet as jetted trimming. Some of the capes in particular have light and graceful designs wrought out in the finest jet and here and there a spray or leaf of heavy silk embroidery. The furs oftenest employed to border these garments are the darker shades of brown, like skunk or pine marten and sometimes sable.

Storm collars are with us still, to the great benefit of lovely woman's appearance. But they are not so high as they were, and they set closer around the face. They are all bordered with fur of some kind. On some of the black velvet and silk coats there are garnitures of white lace. This is not so refined as the black galloons or the jetted trimming or the silk braids. Silk soutache is as beautiful a garniture as any one could require on a velvet garment.

The neat and handy fall jackets have some points of advantage over any yet made. One very pleasing short coat is cut in six pieces only, the fronts being shaped by two darts to half fit the figure. In the back this garment is open nearly to the waist, and the edges are stitched. The front laps to the right and fastens with a fly or with large smoke pearl buttons. This is considered very smart and is to be worn over a skirt of the same material. The extra fine and solid broadcloths are much liked for this style, but whipcord and some of the close twills are also used.

Blouse shapes will win favor with the younger ladies. The Gibson fold on the shoulders is the distinguishing feature, with the shield front and the flat collar and revers, which, however may be removed at will and a high collar substituted. There are many variations of this model, one showing a wide sailor collar of the material and another having no revers or flat collar, but hussar braiding along the shield front, with frogs in the middle. The collar in that case is high and of military rigidity. A short basque of the same stuff reaches all around, but is slashed at the back.

Any of the winter goods may be used in this blouse, but unless it is made of velvet or velutina it looks best matching the skirt. The sleeves may be bishop with any preferred cuffs, or they may be left flowing. Many rows of machine stitching are put on these blouses. They are to be worn as coats and will be valuable long into winter with the addition of a small fur neck piece. On mild days a feather or chiffon boa will add the slight extra warmth required.

In the illustration there are shown several fashionable shapes, one being a short jacket snug at the back, where there are three small tabs, closely stitched liked the rest. There are two pocket lids "for looks." The sleeves are coat shape, as are those of two of the others, only the open reefer has shaped points for cuffs.

There are many new materials to be used for suits, and these short jackets are well adapted to most of them. Camel's hair, cheviot, tweed and crave-netted stuffs are all suitable. The rougher they are the better, except the very short jacket, which looks best in smooth faced material. Black etamine is rich and elegant and "wears forever." A new zibeline with very thick long hairs is offered in all the season's shades and entire suits are sometimes made of it.

HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU.