A Glimpse Of Tokyo

SCENES IN THE SCARRED CAPITAL OF EASTERN JAPAN

A Widespread Medley of Unpleasant Sights, Odors and Sounds-Some of the Inconveniences That Beset the Foreigner In Shopping

Tokyo, the vast sprawling capital of eastern Japan, a comparatively young city, is aged with the scars of fire, of earthquake and of war. This great city, once of 1,000,000 inhabitants, spread over what is popularly estimated as a hundred square miles, seems still to cower in the shadow of the fortress of the great Iyeyasu.

For the American tourist unprepared for the real orient and knowing Japan only through her art products and the few pen pictures of the artist rhapsodists who have embarrassed her with their praises Tokyo is a rare purgative. Except for the stately and dignified tombs of the shoguns and the fine official grounds and buildings of the capital he finds his senses assailed on every side by unpleasant sights, odors and sounds.

Approaching Tokyo by train from Yokohama, he sees the green hillsides placarded with enormous advertisements. Arrived in the city, he finds the poster and billboard everywhere monstrous and flagrant. Stagnant sewers lie along the roadside, and foul odors arise from the pavements, constantly wet down by the householders. Porters and storekeepers with a rag of a breechclout or a scant skirt jostle, shout and stare, and perhaps a whole family may be seen in a doorway ready for the tub, from which you see the steam arising.

A street called the Ginga is the state street of Tokyo, and here in the evening you may find an infinity of wares spread out upon the walk, which is one of the few real sidewalks in Japan. Most of these wares, however, are a vast inconsequential array of cheap trifles, such as the enterprising manager of an American "five cent store" might gather together. There are, however, a number of somewhat pretentious stores to be seen by the persistent shopper.

Shopping in Tokyo, however, is attended by many inconveniences. To begin with, your rickshaw man knows no English and nothing about the stores, and the names and numbers of streets are known only to the map makers. Where a street has a name it is likely to belong only to the shady side and to run around the block instead of continuing from the next corner. If, however, you succeed in finding a store your troubles have just begun. The proprietor sits at the rear of the establishment, cross legged, before a small desk. By virtue of being in his own store he has reached the summit of earthly desire and cares nothing about you. Perhaps if you wait some small clerks of a dozen years or less will come to wait upon you and, seeing you are a foreigner, will charge you extra for the few words of English he can master.

If you are bold enough to leave your rickshaw and wander about on foot you will soon attract a curious crowd, the clatter of whose wooden geta upon the flags will well nigh deafen you. It is a good natured, well meaning crowd, however, and will soon be scattered by a policeman. If there are any clerks going your way they will address you in the hope of learning a few words of English or inviting you to their stores. There is no hostility or insult, only curiosity and good natured, childish amusement.

Modesty is an unknown quantity in Japan, as one soon learns. if your rickshaw man's two garments become damp he is likely to change them before you, and fellow travelers in the cars are sure to change their clothes without deference to place or surroundings. Men and women use the same tank at the same time in the public baths without a thought of impropriety.

The streets of a Japanese city are full of interesting sights and seem never twice the same. Every store and every passer by is a novelty that chains the attention for a moment. In a land where nearly all wares are hand made every article has some individuality, and one is led on with the hope of finding something better than the rest.

Heavy loads are carried through the streets on the backs of men and women, on horses and on two wheeled carts. The carts are drawn by bulls or shaggy northern stallions and are guided by the driver, who walks with the pole.

The burdens carried by women and children are remarkable. All over Japan the heaviest work is done by women, the bricks and masonry for the new museum and government buildings being so transported in the heat of midsummer. Children carry their brothers and sisters strapped to their backs and haul great loads on heavy carts. The life of the laboring classes seems very arduous, and they are remarkably patient and industrious. Throughout city and country every one seems to e hard at work.

The death rate of Tokyo is very high. The custom of carrying very young children strapped on the back with their heads unprotected form the sun leads to thousands of cases of brain fever and blindness. A majority of the children bear the marks of skin diseases, and their heads are often nauseating to behold. The water used in the city is suspicious, and travelers drink spring water or tea. The general practice of rubbing certain wooden images on the temples to secure freedom from various forms of disease undoubtedly assists the spread of various disorders.-Chicago Chronicle.