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Woman's Crowning Glory

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■ ' tent óf the coiffure is a matter oí much consequence, and wil! ever bc treated as such as long as "'''■'''' ' ■ erlai race ensnare, And beautv ürawsuswlthb balr." However, since the days when women wore Lorned head-dresses, in token of their being descended from rank and authority, to the present time .when hair-dressing merely aims al the art which imitate.s chance, there has never been a coiffure which has served for a universal style. Ilair has ever refused to typify any thing, and ita fashion lias stood upon its privilege oí being as variable as- we-]], fashion. Derisii n. eriticism and tirade have :it last vanquished false hair almost entirely, and at present it is necessary to ad rather tnan fine hair, and coiffures must be coi .f distinctó il of dressy arranfrements devised by ordinary taste. There is Buch agrowing preferenee for antique fashions that portraite of famons beautiesoí a century or tuo ago are conBulted many items of the toilet, one of the most important bein? coiffures. Abroad historie style i qow and then, and the Louis XVI., not averae to ripples for light hair, is a friend also to putl's. with gema and feather tips for full dress. M. Virgile, Üie reat Prussian hairdresser, is the style favored by the Empresa Josephine, copied froinher portraits between L800 ;md 1810. The Idea was probably taken f rom the ancient Greek models. The hair, drawn tog-ether at the back, is twisted into a small round chignon rather high on the head, and from this appears the hair frize and in front a lijht f rine of small curls. The capotes are made so that this ehignon is outside. This is the vei-y latest style, and for dressv ing ivear a srnall wreath with a bunch of feathers or ribbon in front isenough, for the object is to keep the g-eneral effect of the head smail and compact. There are some of the leaders of fashion who wear the hair plaited low down and the plait broug-ht up to the top of the head. Another style much in vogne is to have the hair waved or ovduli. There is an iron especially for the purpose and it takes almnt, tliroo. quarters of an hour to do. Hard or limp hair takes a much long-er time to opérate on successfully than soft, naturally curly hair. With the latter style of hair the iindulation will last over two weeks, while limp hair requires the operation renewed more constantly. But this style only stiits. certain faces and looks very ridicidous if not perfectly becominf. There will perhaps be a revival of the Du Barry fashion, with its soft-cushion roll placed well back from the front of the head, while the directoire style, with its eccentric fancy of the forehead nearly covered, and the picturesque Lamballe, all waves and haifcurled curls, are copied with certain Btyles of costumes. Toilets which are simply dressy and do not inelude any historie features require merely showy coiffures, whieh owe their distinction to the art with which they are adapted to the individual and the style of dress whieh they aceompany. The only imitation quoted of a veritable ancient coiffure is the Roman, with three g-old bands, and this style must be follovved eautiously. A lady with a facft should dress her hair on the back of her head. The nair on the top .should be arrang-ed in waves. and a fringe should be brought over the forehead and well over the temples, the idea being to broaden the face as mueh as possible. If the neck is perfectly formed it may be left bare, but if long and sinewy it ahould be covered somewhat with loose eurls. A lady with a round face should wrange her hair on the top of her head. The rope-twist is a good style, and the hair should be nrranged to come to a point. Any one with a broad forehead should wear as little hair on the temples as possible and dress it hig-h. One with a low forehead should keep the hair off the forehead in front and arrange a few ourls on the temples. A lady with a receding forehead should have the hair well curled on the forehead. The bad effect of high cheekbones can be modified by the hair in a cluster of small corla on the temples. Frizzes, eiirls, and waves are essentially the fancies of fair-haired Galllc women. Esthetic writers speak of hair as golden as a new sovereign or as yellow as ripe eorn- shades which are more commonly artificial than natural. Rust-eolored hair is at present favored over blonde, and when aecompanied by brown eyes and a palé complexion is a source of envy to the yellow type. YVith toilet, when satin or velvet flowers are used as g-arnitures, little sprays of the same are adapted for coiffure ornamenta, although for matrons two or three small tips are íerred for the hair and


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Ann Arbor Courier