La Pinata hits the mark with good value

News photo: John L. White

La Pinata hits the mark with good value

By MATT ARCURE 

News Restaurant Reviewer

The bartender making margaritas by the dozens laments that he remembers when football weekends meant booming times at La Pinata. “It’s not as busy these days. There are just too many restaurants in Ann Arbor now,” he says.

It’s a shame. There’s lots to enjoy about La Pinata if you’re looking for something very casual, convenient and uncomplicated. It’s clean, it’s priced right and the portions are generous. What more can you ask?

La Pinata isn’t trying to be great dining. It lacks pretense. Instead you’ll find a hardworking, friendly, down-to-earth crew serving Tex-Mex foods in an oversized neighborhood bar and gathering place. Nothing fancy, but you’ll get your money’s worth.

Lots of people go for the tried-and-true Tex-Mex favorites such as tacos, enchiladas, burritos or tostadas. I prefer some of the other items on the La Pinata menu. Be a little more adventuresome and pass on those standards you can find at fast food stops. You won’t be sorry. Instead, try the tingas appetizer, the quesadillas or the chili rellenos.

Quesadillas come in lots of different versions. La Pinata’s version is a winner flour tortillas grilled with cheese, onion and hot peppers. You can get them filled with seasoned beef, chicken or beans. All choices are garnished with lettuce, tomato, sour cream and guacamole. This guacamole is terrific - creamy avocado with the piquant flavoring of onion, sour cream, garlic, tomato and spicy seasonings. I could make a meal of the restaurant's warm tortilla chips with this guacamole. The quesadilla with its crispy crusts, melted cheese, chunks of seasoned chicken and this guacamole is a savory treat.

The Chili Reilenos, mild green chilies stuffed with cheese and seasoned ground beef, is another entree worth trying It’s served over perfectly done Spanish-style rice that’s tender and flavorful. As for the Tingas, these are small corn tortillas, filled with a spicy barbecued beef filling and deep fried. A serving disappears quickly.

Tex-Mex food has the reputation of being high fat and heavy on the meat. At La Pinata, there are lots of efforts to dispel this image. Waitstaff point out that meat fillings are prepared by thoroughly cooking ingredients and draining off excess fat In addition, the refried beans have no lard or fat added. The salsa that’s served with many of the dishes is a combination of vegetables and spices with no fat, sugar or salt added. Staff also suggest to those wanting low fat or low calorie choices that they order entrees with little or no cheese added. They will also prepare grilled entrees without oil.

No matter what you try at La Pinata, leave room for dessert. I suggest bunuelos. These are deep-fried crullers or doughnut dough rolled in cinnamon and sugar. They’re sort of like those pie crust cookies you got to make as a kid with the leftover dough when your mother made pies, only better. These come with chocolate-flavored whipped cream for dipping An order is sufficient to take care of you and a table full of friends!

Waitstaff are eager to please. This goes for the staff taking care of the restaurant’s carryout. Althought this is a handy option, the food loses a lot in transport. It’s much better enjoyed there.

Gripes? The smoke. When La Pinata opened in 1981, smoking was more acceptable than it is now. Then, it may not have bothered people to walk in to the restaurant, passing though the bar area where smokers puff away. Now, however, it’s offensive and a real determent in making a choice to have a meal at the comer of Liberty and Stadium.

RESTAURANT

REVIEW

La Pinata

2204 W. Stadium Blvd. 769-9277

Food 7 out of 10

Service 6 out of 10

Atmosphere 8 out of 10

Hours: Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Friday & Saturday 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sunday 2:30-8:30 p.m. Liquor: full bar.

Plastic: all major credit cards.

Prices: inexpensive to moderate; entrees from $2.50-$11.50, most around $5. 

Wheelchair access: adequate.