Autumn Styles

ïke marked ohange in hats is frotn extra agantly broad-brimmad shadc b;its to neater and more compact shapes. lic four illustrat ons here given are drawn from the very neweat models. The light weiffht basket bruid hats are attractive with thciruarnilures light and otlicreal. Soft tinted crapes, tulle and illúsions are usad as well as lace grenadine and vol vet ribbons. In these hata of shirred net and muil the lightest ana most airy elle ts areaimed at, the finish consists generalij' of a spray of lilacs, in somo cases mounted with sruall clusters of moss ruso buds, or drooping OBtrieh-tips, or a pearl-tipped pompon, mounted with au aigrette, held op by a i hou of the net. Beautiful e octs are shown in Leghorri li.its, with the crown encircled by a band of black velvet ribbon, drapcry of point-d'esprlt tulle smotlieriug the crown, and iu front a rib on bow or chou sustaining a m nture of ostrtch tips in black or straw color, or a cluster of delicate rod slik field poppies branched with wiltcd loaves o india rubbe1. For wear in the dainty toilets aiected on the piazzas of fashion:ible watering places thcre is much favor shown the hats of shirred muil, point-d' esprit tulle, and other transparcnt tissues. Premonition of a hat lor the earlier weeks of the autumn, shown in a shape trenching upon a military hat, has a tapering crown of medium height, and brim, wide and cur ing, pressed up closely at each sido and droop ng in a squared-off narrow point in front and back. Colored tulle veils matching the hat trimmings aestill Jargelyin vogue. The. most becoming, however, are those of palé rose color wliieli impart a soft, youthful bloom to the complexión of the wearer Bonncts made entirely of flowers continue ,uite popular for wear with sunimer costumes. Such flowers as marguerites, vite or colored lilaos, mignonette, wild roses or hyacinths are usually chosen. As with batsso it is also with dresses. Flummery is seen lc.s and elegant simpücity is seen more. For eiening wear at the seaside or in the mountains an eider down cloth wrap is proving serviceable as well as fashionable. Black wraps in silk. satín, lace and grenadine are now worn with a costume of any material or color, and are both plainly and elaborately trimmed. A new silk gloye for sumnaer wear is long enough to go over the sleevc, and so tiimmed with bows as to appear as if fastened by them. The latest model for a traveling cloa'í is of plain cloth of iight weight, made up in redingote shape, and gathered into a yoke of plain velvet, having full sleeves with deep velvet cuffs, and a velvet belt around the waist. Of the co'.ors in vogue for street costumes.f avoritism is still shown toward heliotrope, salmón, pink, tortoise, olive green, bronze and violet. Mouse-colored basket cloth is also classed among the fresh arrivals to the vvurdrobe. Bias v elvets are now selected in preference to satin, being quite as handsorae and more durable upon the lower part of skirts. Haid and striped eoods are also largely made up plain White fouliird', showing black figures, lines or stripes, are increasing in favor, and they ccrtainly make stylish costumcs. They are claborately adorned with lace and ribbon, which add not a little to their effectiveness. Linen suits trimmed wilh velvet aro looked upon with more favor for traveling purposes. IIouso drcsses rangii frora the simplest, loosest, most informal gown to the tight.corupaet fitting dress. Exquisitely beautiful tint9 are in soft woolens- notaoly, the most delicate browns with hequering stripes of greenish hucs, navy blue with pink, not merely in the two colors, but in var ous s had es of those colors. Mástic is very fashionable striped and cheq eured with fifty tones of the same color. As to spotted fabrics there is an endlcss varietv of them, with ' all over" tiny embróidered spots on a plain chequered ground; or the spots are grouped to form patterns and are frequently in as manv as three colors. These are the freshest ideas for ia-door wear. Certainly some luuatic asylum is fnrnishing the hosiery manufacturers with designs. The latest freaks are unpardonably ugly. Think of a stocking lavender up one side and black up the other, or palo blue the front half and tnaroon the back. The worst specimens are put ou little girls and boys. The effect is appalling. A child looks as if it were walking on a clothpspin, for only tho dark half shows, tho light shade of blue or lavendor is lost. Another mor.strosity was a pair of black silk stock!nrs witb. a pink V shaped pieco let in on the calí. Tho ellcct of this ñique piece of foolishness is to makc the wearcr, a boy in kilts Jook as if be were wearing a pair of stockings split ha!f way down the back. Women are not usually fond of mend ing stockings and vet they are now doing it. .na group of girls llie other day some in ormation in the stoeking menging line was astonishing. The convcvsation turned upou tlie rrallv disgraceiul wav in which the fingers of silk yloves and the toes of silk stockings wear out nowadays There were three young ladies away froni home without maids. They were asked how they managed. Miss No. 1 for answer pulled off her slipper and shows her adanced views of darning. There had been a good sized round hole. She had taken a needie and thread and run around the place, gathered it up and fastened it in the middle, making the most ridiculous 'ot of radiating puckcrs rather worse to wear than the hole. She dared No 2 to show her method. No. 2 held back, but finally yielded.and behold on the heel of this young lady's stocking was a hole neatly stopped with a postage stamp The advance samples of goods which have been examined indícate that small checks will be very much wora this autumn and winter. Invis ble checks will be popular in wool dress fabrics. Plaid will return to favor again in entire costumes as well as in combinations of plain. But few stripes will bi; worn this autumn and winter. Wool dress fabrics will be chiefly in plaids, checks and figured styles, and the finish will be diferent. Instead of the soft wool finish lh preference will be for;i cloth finish poásessing a firmer fa 0 than the soft wool fabrics. Black silks trimmed with velvet will be fashionable again; in fact, silks aro once moro coming nto favor as dress material for street wear. A walkalongourstreetswill convince anyone of this fact, as more silk dresses are soen th;n beforo in years. What is w anted to give additional popularity to silks is honesty in their manufacture. Get rid of the loaded finish, put in pure materials and then consumers will have conlidence once more in sük fabrica. Manufacturera must inaugúrate a reform in their processes of manufacture if they expect a general demand for silks. The September styles of toilet are well pictured above. The newest and most novel design for cloaks for traveling is said to be copied (rom the eloaks of the lrisli peaant woman and envelopes the w-orer from head to foot. Tliey aro made of six orseven breadths of twilled silk gathered to a velvet standing collar. They are without sleeves, but tlie front breadths aro don bied from the foot up and the arrus pass out betvveen the doubled fronts; a ribbon belt attachcd to the two back seanis forms them into waist. Cloaks are shown in I rown. gray or navy blue striped with hair lines of ecru or reil, and are shirred into the velvet collar. Thin silks made water proof are made up in this design for rain ordust cloaks. Other travelinp cloaks of gray camel 's hair or serge art made up with a much c!oser shape and are trimmed with three rows of duli silver galloon. Dark cross-barred homespnn in shades of ecru and browc aro made up as ulster and traveling cap for use in ocean vovajring. F tSilldll .ossip. Slik warp French cahmere will com po3e one or the very tnshionable di e s iab rics the coming se ison. Roman red foulard dresses, yery mucb draped with black Spauish guipure lace, are the ruge i.i 1 aria. Changeable wool stuffs of very light weigbt are the nnvelty introduccd ior Bummer dresses at the seasido and coun try resorts. At a recent gathering of very fashionably dressed people, it was noted that more than two thirds of the younger women wore white toilets, rrany of whlch were unrelieved ty a partic e of color. Considerable opposition has been made by fashion leaders to the revi ving mode of mntching the various parts of the toilet, but the current has fairly set in the direc tion of this elegant but rather expensive fashion. The new sashes are very elegant, very wide, and ve'y expensive. live yards are often used wher i the wearer is tall and elects for a Louis yuinze sash, the ends of which reach quite to the foot of thodresi skirt. AmoDg the recent nick nacks in 'ewelry are seen silver bead necklaces of one, two, three and four strauds; a silver an hor, entwiued with co!orel en.imel 1 owers for a iace pin: I'ower de-igns used iu belt buckles; initial i nger rinj of üne twisted wires; a novel lace pin in the shape of a sbepherd s crook, in the center of w hich is a Fan pipe. A pretty boating coatume, recently utilized for tennis, was made of creatu white pilot cloth. tbe skirt of the same fabric striped with (rray, the eash of dove gray suruh fastened in front with a largo silver buckle. L" pon the beid was a jockey cap of white serge, and the wearer ooked very charmingin it, her golden hair cut short and curling in short rings all over her herid. White ulsters and cricket cap? to inatcb are chosen for coaching and sendide waar. Sume of these ire entirelv plain. with merely rows ot stitching for trimmiu-', whilo others have ahoid with silk lininx of i.obe in blue or bright scirlet. or of glacé silk, ard ttie cap is trimmed with a kerchief to mal oh set in pulls and pointed ends in front or one siile. toreen cloth jackets of bright green billiard cloth are made lor Kewport and seasiiio wear gen erally, over white wool or xm.ilin dresses, and are nlso pretty addltlonsto black lace toilets when a wrap is needed. It Is reported from liome that the most Rev. John McEvilly, arehbishop of Tham, Ireland, will shortly be raised to the cardlnalate. At the present time there is no ciiriünal attachcd to the Irish church. Rev. Dr. Henry M. Scudder has given In lus old church in San Francisco a larewell lecture on Japan, preparatory to going to that country lo spend the reinalnder of liis life. Mrs. Andrew Carnegle wlll select a site for a c50,0::0 home wben she returns from her European wedding Uur. Jlay she be a9 happy n It as some young wives are in a ylne-covered cottane. '11 iss dollars, a dangerous counterfeit, are botherinp tradesmcn in a New York preclnct (.l;ss Rives a ring to the false metal. The gflass dollar is brittlcand may easily be broken with a hamnier. Princesa LouisO, eldest daughter of the Prlnce of Wales, is eald to liave herfourth offer of marrlage, this time from a Russi:i ïi prlnce. Miss Lotiise must find the royal chapa i ratbei monotonous set. Of tho hundreds of cases pending in New York city courts agalnst thu elovated railroads for obstruction of light and air, ono has been concluded favorably to the property owner by a SO, 000 compromise. The wlll of Thaddeus Kosciusko has been unearthed In the oftiee of the register of willsof the District of Columbia. Tliomas Jefferson, the executor, is authoried to use the entire property in purchasing and freeing Negio.s and giving them au education. Gov, Hughes of Arkansas gets two suits of clotb.es a year regularly from Georgia, the material belng woven and his clothes biiing male up in tliat saté. He has just received his smuiner outfit from theUoober state. It Is made ofcnecked cottonade. George W. Ewina of Fort Wayne, Ind., une of the helrs to the great Ewlng estáte, while felllug a tree in the Adirondacks, eut a gash in his toot, and is now lying in a critica] condltlon. Tlie stay-at-homes ïre sometlmes better off than those who go away. Jonathan Houston, a farmer of Thomaston, Me., iliid recently in extreme destitutlou, and tlie authoiities ordered hisclothuiï to be burned. Before the order was earrled Into eITe t his ragswere examined, and money and securities worth S4,500 v ere fouud.