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Ann Arbor Cooks : Repast

Repast, a quarterly newsletter, is the official publication of the Culinary Historians of Ann Arbor. Besides announcements of future meetings and reports of past meetings, it contains feature articles, book reviews, a calendar of upcoming events of culinary interest, and special events.

June 1987 Michigan Sesquicentennial Issue, Volume 1

Fall 1987 Authentic Mexican with Rick Bayless. Cook’s Tour of England and France.


Winter/Spring 1988 The Benevolent Bean, the Ancient Legume. American Indian Medicinal Plants.

Fall 1988 Culinary Discoveries on the Greek Islands. Eat, Drink and Be Critical: Reviewing Restaurants.

Winter 1989 The AGA, King of Stoves. The Rice Krispie Bar Story. Food Clichés that Snap, Crackle and Fizzle.

Summer 1989 Four Generations of Great Lakes Fishing. Middle English Culinary Terms.

Fall 1989 A Restaurateur in China. Guilin Cooking Lessons with Raquel Agranoff of Moveable Feast.

Winter/Spring 1990 Indian Pudding: The American National Dish?

August 1990 A Visit to Shaker Village in Pleasant Hill, Kentucky. Middle English Culinary Terms.

Fall 1990 Remembrances of Tastes Past: Culinary Holiday Memoirs.

Winter 1991 Homage to Anne Willan, Cookbook Author and Teacher. Tabasco Company Community Cookbook Awards.

Winter 1991-92 Jello—Just for Kids? Food in Marco Polo’s Travels. Cookbook Collecting.

Summer 1992 Food in Marco Polo’s Travels, part two. The History of Spices.

Summer 1994 Turkish Cuisine. Food at the World’s Fair, Chicago 1893.

Winter 1994 Gastronomic Humor – An Old Tradition. In the Abruzzi with Giuliano Bugialli. A Week of Eating in Morocco. Chicago Paletas.

Spring 1995 Middle English Culinary Terms: Tarts. M & M’s, the Chicago Cabbie Haven. Monkey and Manicou in Grenada.

Summer 1995 A Voice from Michigan’s Past. The Road to Battle Creek: Kellogg and Post.

Winter, 1996 How Italians Live So Cheaply. Market Snacks in Chicago.

Spring 1996 America’s Charitable Cooks: Ohio’s Community Cookbooks. Sweet Smelling Saturdays: Fruitcakes.

Summer 1996 No One Ever Called Her Mali: A Grandmother Remembered. Summer Kitchens. Exotic Catsups.

Fall 1996 A Significant Exhibit: 200 Years of Cookbooks at Clements. A True History of True Popcorn.

Winter 1997 The Schlesinger Library: A Cambridge Culinary Treasure. A Directory of Food & Beverage Museums.

Summer 1997 Food Sources: A Family History. Cuisine in Northeast Brazil.

Fall 1997 Chinese Shrimp and Fish Drying. An Early Russian Cookbook. Henry Supernaw: Lake Carrier Cook.

Winter 1998 An Enticement: The Kitchen by Nicolas Freeling. Noel Riley Fitch’s Appetite for Life.

Summer 1998 Stand Facing the Stove: Rombauer and Becker. Ties Between Irma Rombauer and Northern Michigan.

Fall 1998 Doughnuts and the Salvation Army. Apple Boiling in the Shenandoah Valley.

Winter 1999 A Shakespeare Holiday Feast. From Marjolaine to Camel’s Hump: Eateries In Old Detroit.

Spring 1999 The Fact of a Corncob. Across Oceans: Butternut Squash Ravioli.

Summer 1999 Traditional and Modern in Morocco: Huileries of Ouezzane. Morocco as a Culinary Bridge.

Fall 1999 Out of Africa: Historic Soups and Stews from Nigeria. Oppression, Opportunity, and Slave Foodways. Oysters Rockefeller & the American Century.

Winter 2000 Grandmother Rosa’s Goulash. Solid Russian Fare. Notes on the Foods of Romania. Sesquicentennial of the Irish Famine.

Spring 2000 An American Century of Food. Why Hawaiians Eat Spam.

Summer 2000 Maize in Colonial New England. Pigeon Pie at James’ Inn, Wisconsin. The Hemingway Cookbook.

Fall 2000 Michigan Dairy Memories. Spies in the Pickle Dump. A Dust Bowl Homestead. Pulling Together in Depression-Era Indiana. Lauderdale County Tomato Festival.

Winter 2001 Flavors of the Jewish Diaspora. Israeli Food Today. Pre-Expulsion Foods of Spain.

Spring 2001 Gerber and the Industrialization of Baby Food. Milk Pasteurization and Food Irradiation. Frank Glazier: World Cookstove Magnate.

Summer 2001 Komagata Dojo Restaurant of Japan Fresh from the Kitchens of Malabar. Two Firecrackers of the Far East.

Fall 2001 Keeping Kosher on the Lower East Side. A Taste of the Tidewater South.

Winter 2002 Food in the Lives of Southern Italian Immigrant Women in Chicago. Celebrating a Polish Christmas: Wigilia. Native American Cooking of the Great Lakes Region. Maple Sugar of the Ojibwa.

Spring 2002 Snack on the History of Chinese Snacks. Chinese Ramen in Japan. From Ancient Biblical Lands to Modern Israel.

Summer 2002 Congee Comfort. Tofu from China to America. Henry Ford Cranks Up the Soy Industry.

Fall 2002 Paris and the Rise of Gastronomie. The French Chef Turns 90: Julia Child. The House that Nickels Built: Automat.

Winter 2003 A Look Back at Two Decades of Culinary Exploration. CHAA 20th Anniversary.

Spring 2003 Where Do Mexican Culinary Traditions Come From? Maize: Mexico’s Gift to the World. Variegated Landscape of Mexican Cuisine.

Summer 2003 Discovering Escoffier and the Fundamentals of Cooking. Confessions of Cooking Student. Escoffier’s Kitchen Brigades.

Fall 2003 Slicing Fish & Fowl in Medieval Japan. Stuffed, Studded, Encased: Filled Food. Menus from Patrick O’Brian’s Novels.

Winter 2004 Muskrat and the Early French Settlers. A Dinner Tribute to James Beard. Giving the Potato Its Due.

Spring 2004 Food in the Ancient Mediterranean 1: Feasting and Fasting in Classical Greece. Ancient Olympians. Milk Products in Ancient Israel. Food Stories from Greece and Rome.

Summer 2004 Pure Food at the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair. Alimentary Nationalism in England. Liberation in the Latin American Kitchen. Yuan Mei: Collector of Recipes.

Fall 2004 Food in the Ancient Mediterranean 2: Blended Cuisine in Ancient Rome. Liquamen and Other Fish Sauces. Roman Food Production in North Africa. Report on U.S. Presidential Meal.

Winter 2005 Silk Road Adventures 1: Turkish Yufka and Its Offspring. Stalking Alliums Along the Silk Road. Report on Ancient Mediterranean Meal. Chicago Celebrates Oxford Encyclopedia.

Spring 2005 American Ethnic Foodways: Acceptance of Greek Foods in America. Ethnic Foodways and Identity. Food Production by the Slaves at Monticello. Norwegian Krumkake.

Summer 2005 Silk Road Adventures 2: Creating a Central Asian Cuisine for Uzbekistan. Kichri Quroot, Dish of Afghanistan. Review of Silk Road Cooking. Symposium Launches Longone Center.

Fall 2005 Potent Potables: Great German Thirst. Early American Beer. Story of Champagne. Early History of American Wine. Absinthe, the Green Fairy.

Winter 2006 The Art of the Table: An Elizabethan Casting Bottle. The Campbell Collection of Soup Tureens. Oneida Silverware. An Emphatically Unstylish Dinner, Circa 1850. Report on Silk Road Meal. Soul Food as Nutritional Sustenance.

Spring 2006 European Baking in America: Jeffrey Hamelman's Earliest Baking. The Croissant. LeJeune's Bakery on Bayou Teche. Didier Rosada at Uptown Bakers. Bread is a Big Deal at Zingerman's. Knishes. American Kugel.

Summer 2006 Foods of the New World: The Pineapple in Early America. The Pecan. The Rise and Fall of the Wild Turkey. Indian Pudding. The Peanut.

Fall 2006 Preserving the Art of Handmade Cheeses: Dutch Farmstead Cheeses. Appalachian Goat Cheeses. Alpine Raclette. Fiscalini Farms. Vermont Cheddar. Point Reyes Blue. Michigan Cheeses. Report on Salad Feast.

Winter 2007 Report on Gulf Coast meal; Children and Food: How to Feed a Victorian Baby; Children’s Culinary Ephemera; Historical Trends in Children’s Cookbooks; Sources and Uses of Children’s Cookbooks

Spring 2007 Celebrate the Life of Alice Arndt; Foods of the American Heartland 1: Remnants of “Mushrat French” Cuisine in Monroe County, MI; Depression-Era Cooking on a German-American Farm in Michigan; Food Production on the Homeplaces of Appalachia

Summer 2007 Karen Hess, 1918-2007; Foods of the American Heartland 2: Dutch Ovens; Gebhardt and La Choy, Making Ethnic Food Safe for Middle America; The Michigan Foodways Exhibit; Cuisines on Parade at the 2nd Longone Symposium

Fall 2007 Historic Foodways of Virginia and the Carolinas: A Recipe from James Hemings at Monticello; Remembering Edna Lewis; Tracing Abby Fisher’s Roots to South Carolina; Brunswick Stew; Report on “Sandwiches from Around the World”

Winter 2008 Food Festivals in Northwest Ohio; Bay Port, MI Fish Sandwich Festival; Prague, OK Kolache Festival; Grand Rapids, OH Apple Butter Fest; Kutztown, PA Folk Festival

Spring 2008 What Exactly Is Native American Food?; Southwest Native Cuisine: Slice of the Past; Pacific Northwest Bounty: Foraging for Life; Tanka Bar: Traditional Wasna in a Modern Wrapper; Hannah Glasse and the English Fascination with World Foods

Summer 2008 Evolution of Saudi Arabian Cuisine; Mansaf: Celebratory Bedouin Meal; Damascus Cuisine; Winds from the East; Book Review: Citrus a History; Two Gifts from Ancient America; Julia Child: A Life Worth Studying

Fall 2008 Sweets from the Middle East (Part 1): Iraqi Cookie Kleicha and the Search for Identity; Baklava: A Quintessential Sweet from Turkey; Immigrant Foods in the Heartland

Winter 2009 Sweets from the Middle East (Part 2): Halvah in Ottoman Turkey; Hindustani Sweetmeats; Luqmat al-Qādī; Report on Bistro Meal

Spring 2009 Cereal Infractions: The True Inventor of Shredded Wheat; Excommunication of the Kelloggs; When the Quaker Reputation Took Its Lumps; “Big Inch” Yukon Land Premium; Was the Cream of Wheat Chef a Real Person?; When Ann Arbor Kids Became Guinea Pigs for General Mills

Summer 2009 Fruits of the Earth: Feral Apple Trees of Ann Arbor; Apple Diversity: A Paradise Lost; History of Citrus Fruits; Domestication and Spread of Bananas; Mining the W.P.A. Records

Fall 2009 Finnish- and Scandinavian-American Traditions: Swedish Coffee and Cookies; Egg Coffee and the Swedish-American Coffee Social; Norwegian Lutefisk and Lefsa; Christmas Foods Among the Danes; Around the Finnish Coffee Table; Finnish American Milk Products in the Northwoods; Report on German Meal

Winter 2010 African-American Food History (Part 1): Carver’s Tuskegee Bulletins; Soul Food from Slavery to Sylvia’s; Paschal’s in Atlanta; Report on British Pub Meal; Book review on Madeira history

Spring 2010 African-American Food History (Part 2): Africa’s Botanical Legacy; Okra Soup; What Early Dietary Studies of African Americans Tell Us About Soul Foods; Jewish Origins of Boston Baked Beans

Summer 2010 Equipping the American Kitchen: Count Rumford’s Legacy; Detroit as Stove-Making Center; The Hoosier Kitchen Cabinet; S. Carolina Jonkonnu

Fall 2010 To Bee or Not to Bee in Britain: Olde English Meads; Sugar’s Route to Medieval and Renaissance England; Sugar of Barbary for the Queen’s Realm; Subtleties and Entremets; The Middle English Term “Sotilté”; Cooking with Shakespeare; Persimmon Festival

Winter 2011 Winter 2011 Experiencing Russian Food: The Georgian Feast; Zakuski Report; Russian Potato Salad; Russian Food from a New York Childhood; Food Tour of St. Petersburg

Spring 2011 Fresh Foods, Preserved Foods: Book review of Fresh: A Perishable History; Selections from the Clements Library Manuscripts; Ernest Schwaab’s The Secrets of Canning; Portable Soup and the Lewis & Clark Expedition

Summer 2011 Civil War Sesquicentennial (Part 1), Dealing with Deprivation: Starving the South; Coffee Cravings Among the Troops; Coffee and its Substitutes in the Confederacy; Making Salt from Sea Water at Cape Fear; The Rise of Sorghum

Fall 2011 Civil War Sesquicentennial (Part 2), The Home Front: Popular Dishes in the Union States; The Robert E. Lee Family Housekeeping Book; Foodways of Enslaved African Americans; Rice and the Lowcountry Homefront; Report on Route 66 Theme Meal

Winter 2012 Food Customs of India (Part 1): Punjab as Culinary Melting Pot; Dessert and the Mughals; Report on New England Theme Meal

Spring 2012 Food Customs of India (Part 2): Cooking Traditions in Maharashtra State; Early History of Rice in India; poems by Zilka Joseph; new books on American founding foods and regional foods; renewed interest in Midwestern farms

Summer 2012 Civil War Sesquicentennial (Part 3), Keeping Troops Fed on the Fields of Combat: The Ingenuity of Rebel Troops; Soldiers Making the Best of Army Food, 1861-1865; Sutlers in the Civil War; The Alexis Soyer and Florence Nightingale Connections

Fall 2012 Making the World Safe for American Cookbooks: Molly Goldberg and Her Jewish Cookbook; Who Put the Porkchops in Arabian Stew?; Herbs for the Kitchen, a Hidden Italian-American Gem on the Spice Shelf; Treasured Polish Recipes, a Taste of the Old Country; Report on Julia Child Centennial Meal

Winter 2013 Civil War Sesquicentennial (Part 4), A Spur to the Food Trade: The Civil War’s Influence on the U.S. Canning Industry; Edmund McIlhenny and Tabasco® Brand Pepper Sauce; A. Goodman & Sons Bakery; Vernor’s, a Concoction Aged by the Civil War; new food memoirs on the Middle East; Report on Craig Claiborne Theme Meal

Spring 2013 To Cook for No Master, New Levels of Autonomy in the African-American Kitchen: Peanuts at Poplar Grove Plantation; Robert Roberts’s House Servant’s Directory; African Americans and Congressional Foodways in the 19th Century; Authenticity and Stereotype in Southern Souvenir Cookbooks; Freda De Knight and Postwar Black Cooking; new books on ethnic cuisines

Summer 2013 The Growing Diversity of American Cooking One Century Ago: The Hill Family Manuscripts from Denver; The Mary Frances Cook Book; America’s First Chinese Cookbook in English

Fall 2013 Formative Food Experiences: Fish for Breakfast; The Last Time I Saw Florina, Greece; Taking Classes from Mme. Charity DeVicq Suczek; Forty Years of Home Bread-making; Report on North Africa Theme Meal

Winter 2014 Adventures in Jewish Baking: Growing Up in a Midwest Jewish Baking Family; Raider of the Lost Knish; Sephardic Matzah for Passover; Jewish Rye Bread; The Perfect Homemade Bagel; poems by Marvin Brandwin; American Foodways, the Jewish Contribution; Report on Orient Express Theme Meal

Spring 2014 Quadricentennial of Dutch-American Food (Part 1), The Hudson and Delaware River Valleys: An Overview of Dutch Influence on the American Kitchen,; report on a Delaware Valley Dutch Foodways theme meal; The Batterie de Cuisine of Holland; Further Notes on Dutch Foods in Early America; review of Cuisine and Empire

Summer 2014 Quadricentennial of Dutch-American Food (Part 2), The Great Lakes Region: Going Dutch in West Michigan; Hutspot in Wisconsin; Slaw in Ann Arbor; Dutch Dishes More Recently Arrived; Further Notes on Dutch Foods in the Upper Midwest

Fall 2014 Cookbooks of the World, 1925-1975: Édouard de Pomiane, Gastronome; Before the American Food Awakening; Cooking with Khrushchev: Recipes for a New Soviet Life; Time-Life’s “Foods of the World” Series; report on Michigan Foods theme meal

Winter 2015 Topics in Early American Cooking, Middle Atlantic States: Dutch and English Foodways in the Middle Colonies; Pepper Vinegar in Virginia and the Carolinas; “Coleworts” and Pot Likker in North Carolina; report on Comfort Foods theme meal; In Memoriam: Ann Hertzler, Marjorie Cripps, Carroll J. Thomson, Joann Chalat

Spring 2015 Florida Foodways, Traditional and Exotic: A Review of Some Florida Cookbooks; Swamp Cabbage: It’s Not Easy, But It’s Worth It; Zora Neale Hurston on Lowdown Floridian Food and Culture; Koonti, the Starch that Built Florida; More Notes on Florida Foodways; Opulent Dining; Eating in Unusual Places

Summer 2015 Musings of a Louisiana Cookbook Collector; review of Gary Paul Nabhan, Cumin, Camels, and Caravans: A Spice Odyssey; My Love Affair with the Vidalia Chop Wizard; Fork and Chopstick History

Fall 2015 Dining Out in America, Part 1: Review of “Dining Out” Exhibit; Lunch Wagons in American Restaurant History; New Jersey as the “Diner Capital of America”; report on Southern Hemisphere theme meal

Winter 2016 Dining Out in America, Part 2: Kolb’s Restaurant, a Slice of Germany in French-Creole New Orleans; Southern Restaurants as Contested Terrain; review of Thomas Parker, Tasting French Terroir: The History of an Idea; report on Spices theme meal

Spring 2016 Chefs’ Reminiscences, Part 1 (Arno Schmidt, Maureen Abood, Sara Moulton, Jeremiah Tower, Dan Vernia); Sausage in Germany and Elsewhere

Summer 2016 Chefs’ Reminiscences, Part 2 (Martin Yan, Anissa Helou, Fernando Divina, Lidia Bastianich, Eve Aronoff Fernandez, Shawn Loving); Dorothy Hartley and Her Tracklements

Fall 2016 Portugal, a Unique Corner of Europe: A Culinary Adventure in Portugal; Portuguese Cuisine— More Than Bacalhau; Portugal’s Algarve as a Mediterranean Culinary Region; Paula Wolfert and Marcella Hazan, the Queens of Mediterranean Cuisine

Winter 2017 Ann Arborites Share Some Food Memories: Frank Carollo’s reminiscence; Evolution of a Hoosier Palate; Making Biryani with My Grandmother; Iconic Restaurants of Ann Arbor; holiday food memories

Spring 2017 The Food Culture of Portugal, Part 2 (Small Nation, Huge Footprint): Portuguese Influence in Brazilian Cuisine; Macanese Cuisine and Cultural Identity; Portuguese Cuisine in Japanese Gastronomy

Summer 2017 The Food Industry, Part 1: How We Loved to Be Romanced at Fine Restaurants; Ann Arbor’s People’s Food Co-op

Fall 2017 The Food Industry, Part 2: An African-American Restaurateur in Prerevolutionary Moscow; 150th Anniversary of Underwood Deviled Ham; Better Made in Michigan, the Salty Story of Detroit’s Best Chip; Restaurants and the Genealogy of the American Palate; history of vegetarian eating

Winter 2018 History of yogurt; international foods enclosed in dough; foods of the Danube River region

Spring 2018 The Food Industry, Part 3: History of the Ball Brothers Co.; dining on legendary railways of the world; history of Kikkoman

Summer 2018 Food in the Early Years of New France: Having Lunch with Father Marquette; Foods of New France as Reconstructed at 18th - Century Sites; Yellow Split Pea Soup

Fall 2018 Food Legacies of the French Canadians: The Corbetts and French Cooking in Old Detroit; The Detroit Habitants; A 19th-Century Tourtière Recipe from Michigan’s Copper Country; A Depression-Era Logging Camp in Copper Country; Growing Up French Canadian in Massachusetts; A Farm Meal from 19th-Century Michigan

Winter 2019 Culinary Excursions, Part 1: Wine and Food in North Central Spain; Medieval Egyptian Recipes; Foods of Exotic Seaports